Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Ken Klis, Jarod Jenkins
Page Views: 498 total · 7/month
Shared By: j moore on Jun 2, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Big moves requiring a few long reaches to jugs marking the crux moves down low. a bolt above your head for every crux. after bolt 3 it gets gradually easier on 5.10 ground, stay right of the chimney for the hard man test.

Location

right side of lims. on the overhanging arete.

Protection

6 bolts.

Photos

you can stay out of the chimney for the high test (bolt 3) Sep 9, 2013
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
 
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
 
Very fun climbing on the lower section of this route with big moves on big holds.

It seems the route naturally "pulls" you to the arête and just left of it after the lower crux moves. I tried it on TR after leading it and tried to force myself to stay right of the arête on the awesome looking steep face, but still ended up naturally trending left. It would be a harder grade to force oneself to stay right of the arête, and a bit contrived due to having to avoid using holds on the left of the arête, but would be worth the practice.

Once you've climbed left of the arête, you have the option to just rest against the wall behind you, but the better style I guess, or better practice rather, is to pretend it's not there and avoid using it. Mar 5, 2018
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
 
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
 
Hey Ken, does this route and it's grade originally stay right of the arête on the steep face after the lower section's big moves?

What is "high test?" Is that the variation staying to the right? Mar 5, 2018
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
 
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
 
Ken's reply via email:
"Yes, stay out of the chimney, start upper section with right hand finger lock and keep right of edge." Mar 5, 2018