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Routes in Summit Blocks - East (Main)

Across The Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arriba Su Vientre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caveman Television T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dig A Pony S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dig It S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eaks it Out T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakes to Fresno T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hardly Worth the Trouble T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lim’s Cramp Chimney TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sunnyside T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vance’s Vertical Vent T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wave, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: Rusty Garing & Friends
Page Views: 2,389 total · 13/month
Shared By: Chris Nosti on Jan 25, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is the obvious left diagonal crack in the middle block. A good day of climbing would be to ascend P-Wall via P-Crack or Route Canal and then finish the day on Flakes. This is a straightforward lead and the only difficulty is deciding whether you want to use the face or just get your right side completely in the crack.

Protection

This route sucks up the larger hexes and cams and you will be glad to have them when you have your whole body shoved into the crack. A good rack would be from 1" to 3.5".
This was my first off width crack. I got pretty banged up on the first pass but ended up having a blast and learned a thing or two in the process. Dec 28, 2004
Looks like the anchor bolts were chopped in the last few months. Anyone know why? Jan 8, 2006
Jon Hanlon
SLO
 
Jon Hanlon   SLO
 
With one to two inch cams, you can belay from the notch above the crack, or at the top of the summit block. Alternately, you can belay from the bolts above "Across the Universe," although it is a somewhat off to the side Jan 9, 2006
Slater  
I would talk to Ken. I think he talked about maybe moving them or even taking them out. I think he was a bit worried after that hiker death (Ken was the last guy to set the anchors up there I believe). He was thinking that maybe the guy tripped over them and his conscience was pretty loaded. It turned out not to be the case, but maybe it inspired him to finally go up and take them out. But I could be totally wrong, so talk to Ken. If I remember correctly, you can still rig up a solid anchor with gear. Jan 9, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
'Flakes' really isn't an offwidth crack at all. It's a hand and fist crack. When I think offwidth, I think of hand stacks, chicken-winging, and arm bars - none of which are necessary. The trick on Flakes is to keep from getting sucked in too deep at the pod 3/4 of the way up.

As for a rack, I bring 3 cams total, a #2, #3, and #4 Camalot (or equivalent). If you don't have a #4, bring 2 #3s. Mar 4, 2006
Floyd Hayes
  5.8+
Floyd Hayes  
  5.8+
I took along two #3s and two #4s, used them all, and was glad to have them. I also used two smaller cams to sew it all up. Oct 17, 2011

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