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Routes in Pizzo Forcella

Central pillar T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 24 total, 0/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Nov 5, 2008
Admins: Dan Flynn

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A very worthwhile, moderate trad climb.

Except for the third and fourth pitches, which go at 5b and 5c, respectively, the route is never more difficult than 4b, and in many sections is considerably easier. Despite the lack in homogeneity, it is thoroughly entertaining from start to finish, due to the varied terrain, which includes face climbing, cracks and chimneys, and the alpine protection.


The route begins in a recess between the two large, bulging lower pillars on the wall. The route begins just a few meters to the left of a modern, bolted route in that recess.

It is possible to use anchors from other routes to abseil, though this gets trickier towards the top.

Otherwise, the descent is by hoof: 30 meters north of the peak through a couloir to the northwest ridge, which provides access back down to the valley.


The route has a number of old pitons that, if nothing else, assist in sorting out the direction to go. A moderate trad rack will do the trick - nothing larger than a #2 cam is needed, and there's no need to double up on anything.

Due to the presence of other bolted routes on the wall, it is possible to avail of bolted anchors in the lower / middle half of the route.