Piccadilly di Bedretto
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
| Type: | Sport, 1250 ft (379 m), 10 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 46.4911, 8.4483 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 759 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | CG W on Nov 4, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn |
Description
A popular, high-quality route of moderate difficulty. As with neighboring routes, the climb offers pleasant climbing up a large, moderate slab, followed by a superb, steeper headwall.
The only 6a bit on the route is a very thin slab section in the 5th pitch, which can be aided. There are numerous pitches of 5c/5c+, particularly in the headwall.
Location
The route is on the right side of the wall, and begins from a band above the first slabby part of the lower wall. A trail leads up and around to the right of the first slab, providing access to the band. Scramble left on the band to its end. Picadilly, dr grüen Nils and Herbstwind all begin from this point (there is often a cairn here, but no marking on the rock, and no bolts/pins until somewhat higher up). Picadilly scrambles up and then left on a ramp underneath a steep, black-colored section of rock. Herbstwind ascends the steeper, black-colored face. Dr grüen Nils bypasses that same face via a ramp to its right.
Descent is by abseil back down the wall.



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