Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Glen Burke
Page Views: 4,098 total · 33/month
Shared By: GoSharks on Oct 10, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Two starting holds, one undercling right, and small undercling pocket for the left. Sit start makes the grade. Do it sitting on the ground for full effect. Go up and left to a crimp rail, then slightly right is a slanted jug. Next, to slopers to the right of that and up to a crystal to the top out.


Located at the middle of the Standard Overhang boulder.




have NOT done but from observing its hard, people dont like it because they cant do the first move. TRY HARDER and crank off your feet. and flex to third move.... looks like youre their from their. Jun 12, 2011
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Why don't you try harder and actually get it done before spewing beta you giant dong?
Crank off your feet? Flex for a move? WTF does that even mean? Sounds like a large bowl of STFU and more time on the pink-tape problems would serve you well... Jun 12, 2011
Brent Huff
Brent Huff   SLC, UT
Mountain Bro, delete your skewed ratings. Oct 15, 2011
Jon Marek
Spearfish, SD
Jon Marek   Spearfish, SD
I've never seen this boulder but I talked to my bro and he told me if you clench your anus for the first and sixth move then the crux is only about 5.8ish.

Hope this helps. Nov 13, 2012
Pretty sure the first ascent was by Glen Burke. Jan 7, 2013
Yep... FA was Glen Burke. Jan 7, 2013
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
Is this a good climb or a bad one? Is it a V8 or a V-Easy (check out the suggested ratings)? Never having been on it I would have a negative association with it based on what people are saying here which is kind of lame really - its probably a nice line. The problem is listed at V8 but the consensus is V4 or V5?? Then come the wildly inappropriate/unhelpful comments. Not that I am here to monitor anything but come on - "giant dong" - really? Aug 17, 2013
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
@colin rickert-

This problem is well worth doing. The sit start goes at v8/9 and the stand start goes at v5.

And as far as giant dongs go- Kevin probably shouldn't be giving out any beta for problems he hasn't done. Sep 23, 2013
Marley Nelson
Salt Lake City, Utah
Marley Nelson   Salt Lake City, Utah
Did this yesterday, it felt comparably easy when its 30 degrees out. Also did the first move off a pad and not the dirt... still count?
first v8 up little. Nov 28, 2013
Video beta for barfly and superfly

youtube.com/watch?v=dALP3IE… Aug 3, 2015