Type: Boulder, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Mike Beck
Page Views: 1,233 total · 25/month
Shared By: Victor Copeland on Jul 17, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Classic Mike Beck (MB) traverse that opened up in about 2014-2015 when one of the trees moved, allowing for an extended traverse in from the right.  Has gotten a little harder after the 2016 vandalism made the Barfly jug worse.  Start standing all the way around right on the big sidepull jug. Climb left on the low part of the slab. Wrap around the corner and continue left along the slopey surfboard feature, perhaps using a cool undercling. Then drop into the classic left leaning ramp and Barfly holds to the Superfly jug. Rest, then drop down onto the Standard Overhang moves. Wrap left past Crystal Pinch to the chickenhead jug. Then tick tack and fight the pump to finish on the Pump Traverse backwards. At the start of the Pump Traverse, throw your left foot up and top out.  Video available here.  To MB's knowledge, this traverse has not yet been climbed from left to right.  

I find traverses--and stamina climbing generally--rather hard to grade. Recognizing that, I propose a route/traverse grade of 5.13+/V10 Traverse--MB has suggested around 5.13b/c.  I welcome other's thoughts.

Location Suggest change

Start on the right side of the east face of the Standard Overhang Boulder.  End at the start of the Pump Traverse on the west face.

Protection Suggest change

Numerous pads are helpful to make this feel safe.