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Routes in The Sorcerer

Atlantis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Davy Jones' Locker T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Don Juan Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ice Pirates T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost at Sea T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pyromania T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Raven, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scirocco S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stars and Stripes Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thin Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tradewinds S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wailing Banshees T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro
Page Views: 7,048 total, 63/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 22, 2008 with updates
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is perhaps the most visually stunning line in the Sorcerer/Witch amphitheater. It takes the arching undercling crack on the Fire Wall, which is the chartreuse wall that sits below the Sorcerer itself.

Easily TR'd via two rappels from the top of the Fire Wall, and led rather safely if the first piece is pre-placed (otherwise it requires some serious boldness for the poor landing off the initial boulder problem).

The climb involves two boulder problems: First a long reach or dynamic move. A good rest follows, then a second boulder problem - a lunge off underclings (or undercling and crimp) to a juggy rail. Hand traverse this rail back right (tricky to protect) to another good rest. The final stretch is endurance underclinging. Positive, but pumpy. An amazingly stunning line, and a lot of fun to climb.

The anchor at the lip is generally used for top roping - while it is possible to reach down and clip this anchor after the undercling, it is best to finish the route by following the easy finger crack to the top of the Fire Wall.

Protection

Blue TCU's... all of them.

A few wires and RP's are useful as well. I recommend pre-placing/clipping the initial piece to protect from a groundfall. Pre-inspecting the gear on the hand traverse may also be prudent - I used an offset Alien and #2 BallNut.

Photos

Josh Janes    
 
Tony Yaniro actually named this route "Pyromaniac", however, over the years (perhaps due to a perpetuated error) the route has come to be known as Pyromania. Thus, the name given to it in this description (not to take anything away from Tony) reflects this widespread acceptance. Jan 26, 2017