Avg: 4 from 6 votes
Routes in The Sorcerer
|Atlantis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Davy Jones' Locker T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13|
|Don Juan Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Ice Pirates T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Lost at Sea T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Pinhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Pyromania T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13|
|Raven, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Scirocco S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Sleight of Hand T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Stars and Stripes Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Thin Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tradewinds S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Wailing Banshees T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||7,048 total, 63/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Sep 22, 2008|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis is perhaps the most visually stunning line in the Sorcerer/Witch amphitheater. It takes the arching undercling crack on the Fire Wall, which is the chartreuse wall that sits below the Sorcerer itself.
Easily TR'd via two rappels from the top of the Fire Wall, and led rather safely if the first piece is pre-placed (otherwise it requires some serious boldness for the poor landing off the initial boulder problem).
The climb involves two boulder problems: First a long reach or dynamic move. A good rest follows, then a second boulder problem - a lunge off underclings (or undercling and crimp) to a juggy rail. Hand traverse this rail back right (tricky to protect) to another good rest. The final stretch is endurance underclinging. Positive, but pumpy. An amazingly stunning line, and a lot of fun to climb.
The anchor at the lip is generally used for top roping - while it is possible to reach down and clip this anchor after the undercling, it is best to finish the route by following the easy finger crack to the top of the Fire Wall.