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Routes in Resort Buttress
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Drop the Hammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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High Nowhere T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thieves in the Temple T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m) |
| FA: | Dave Budge & Rick Wyatt, 2007 |
| Page Views: | 1,453 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Budge on Sep 16, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: Please be very courteous to Wasatch Resort homeowners.
Details
Access Resort Buttress via the climbers trail which originates across the road from the Grist Mill pullout.
Description
Really fun long pitch with an involved approach. Not really for the leader breaking into 5.9. Can be gritty. However, the setting and climbing make up for all that. Like all South Side Classics, it has a different flavor than the standard fare on the other side of the road.
Start with a great thin flake, placing a few pieces below the first bolt. Switch cracks and follow the seam for a ways, placing gear and clipping bolts. When the seam runs out, angle rightward, following bolts to the top.
Approach:Scramble up and left around the corner from Thieves in the Temple. Don't climb up to the left upper corner of that slab though, bushwack and scramble up broken rock a bit farther left. Take a goat trail left to a cool little nook below the crazy roof split by an enticing flake and crack system. Boulder over a chest high rock and over and down, continuing east, below the slab in front of you. A bolted anchor is next to base of the flake. Be careful there, parts of the ledge are not too solid. Stand above the rocks, not on the dirt above the tree. There is nothing supporting that part.
Descent: Rap the route with 2 ropes. Then, either a 2-rope rap to the boulders below, or backtracking the way you came to Goat Gully. If you choose to rap, throw the ropes carefully or carry them as you descend. You can duck behind a large boulder below while pulling the ropes, to protect you from the possible rockfall.
Even though it kinda sucks to get there and back, the route is great.
Start with a great thin flake, placing a few pieces below the first bolt. Switch cracks and follow the seam for a ways, placing gear and clipping bolts. When the seam runs out, angle rightward, following bolts to the top.
Approach:Scramble up and left around the corner from Thieves in the Temple. Don't climb up to the left upper corner of that slab though, bushwack and scramble up broken rock a bit farther left. Take a goat trail left to a cool little nook below the crazy roof split by an enticing flake and crack system. Boulder over a chest high rock and over and down, continuing east, below the slab in front of you. A bolted anchor is next to base of the flake. Be careful there, parts of the ledge are not too solid. Stand above the rocks, not on the dirt above the tree. There is nothing supporting that part.
Descent: Rap the route with 2 ropes. Then, either a 2-rope rap to the boulders below, or backtracking the way you came to Goat Gully. If you choose to rap, throw the ropes carefully or carry them as you descend. You can duck behind a large boulder below while pulling the ropes, to protect you from the possible rockfall.
Even though it kinda sucks to get there and back, the route is great.
Location
Access from Goat Gully along base of the Resort Buttress, it's on the west end. See the locator photos. The approach is an adventure in itself. If bushwacking grades are similar to aid grades, the approach, rappel, and descent are rated BW4.
Protection
Bolt belay anchors above and below. The route is half bolts and half gear. Don't bother with stoppers. Except for the flake, the placements are parallel, so it's is pretty picky about cam sizes. Often, only one size will do. There are 10-12 gear placements and about 8 bolts. Take a standard rack from a purple TCU to a #4 Camalot. Doubles of finger sizes would be a good idea. A 2-rope rap will get you back down.
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