Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Baron Spire aka Old Smoothie

Baron Falls Tower T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Deliverance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Lawdogs' Lament 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1-2
SE Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1+ PG13
Tall Boys and Breakfast Burritos T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A1-2
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Trevor Bowman and Bryan Schmitz August 13-14, 2008
Page Views: 1,019 total, 9/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Aug 30, 2008
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

An improbable and demanding line linking features up to and through the amazing splitter crack on the golden prow. The first three pitches are excellent, with challenging climbing up great rock; the last two pitches are pretty poor, especially the "Bickle Wiggle"...too bad really, otherwise this would be a classic. With some work, most of the aid could be eliminated, but the section getting established into the splitter on pitch 2 doesn't look promising.
Pitch 1: Stem and jam up the shallow right-facing corner until it gets hard and flared near the top, then aid up about 15' and make a small pendulum right into a groove with a moderate crack to a belay stance. 5.10c C1+ 100'
Pitch 2: Continue up a handcrack to double finger cracks on good rock (5.9+/.10-). Tension traverse right 10' to a semi-circular flake, clip a bolt and layback up a groove/crack to a small ledge(5.9). Two hook moves, a bad bolt (aid only!), and into the splitter crack which is thin at first and gradually widens with good gear in an airy setting. Semi-hanging stance belay past the second small bush, where the wide handcrack begins. 5.9+ A2 170'
Pitch 3: Gorgeous, sustained cupped hands for the whole pitch! Start up a steep zig-zag and then rollover onto splitter goodness up a slab. Set up a hanging belay where the crack ends in a wide horizontal. 5.9+ 90'
Pitch 4: The "Bickle Wiggle" a truly heinous horizontal traverse along a grungy wide crack/groove with much strenuous, weird and unpleasant climbing. Belay on the arete to the left of the massive upper dihedral system of Tall Boys... Unrated 45'
Pitch 5: Make a cruxy traverse left off the arete into the huge dihedral system and pick the best line up this long corner with much dubious rock. 5.9 180'
Pitch 6: Up the Beckey bolt ladder to the top. A1-2 110'

Location

Start in a clean right-facing dihedral about 50' left of Dowdle's SE Face.

Protection

Double set of stoppers and cams with one #4 camalot, with 4 or more #3 camalots recommended for pitch 3, 1 skyhook, 1 bathook, alpine etriers, jumars, 1 long blade was used, but isn't really necessary. You can do the route and rap the standard descent line with one 70m rope.

0 Comments