Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Trevor Bowman and Bryan Schmitz August 13-14, 2008
Page Views: 1,106 total · 9/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Aug 30, 2008
Admins: Mike Engle

You & This Route

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An improbable and demanding line linking features up to and through the amazing splitter crack on the golden prow. The first three pitches are excellent, with challenging climbing up great rock; the last two pitches are pretty poor, especially the "Bickle Wiggle"...too bad really, otherwise this would be a classic. With some work, most of the aid could be eliminated, but the section getting established into the splitter on pitch 2 doesn't look promising.
Pitch 1: Stem and jam up the shallow right-facing corner until it gets hard and flared near the top, then aid up about 15' and make a small pendulum right into a groove with a moderate crack to a belay stance. 5.10c C1+ 100'
Pitch 2: Continue up a handcrack to double finger cracks on good rock (5.9+/.10-). Tension traverse right 10' to a semi-circular flake and layback up a groove/crack to a small ledge(5.9). A few hook moves lead to the splitter crack which is thin at first and gradually widens with good gear in an airy setting. Semi-hanging stance belay past the second small bush, where the wide handcrack begins. 5.9+ A2 170'
Pitch 3: Gorgeous, sustained cupped hands for the whole pitch! Start up a steep zig-zag and then rollover onto splitter goodness up a slab. Set up a hanging belay where the crack ends in a wide horizontal. 5.9+ 90'
Pitch 4: The "Bickle Wiggle" a truly heinous horizontal traverse along a grungy wide crack/groove with much strenuous, weird and unpleasant climbing. Belay on the arete to the left of the massive upper dihedral system of Tall Boys... Unrated 45'
Pitch 5: Make a cruxy traverse left off the arete into the huge dihedral system and pick the best line up this long corner with much dubious rock. 5.9 180'
Pitch 6: Up the Beckey bolt ladder to the top. A1-2 110'


Start in a clean right-facing dihedral about 50' left of Dowdle's SE Face.


Double set of stoppers and cams with one #4 camalot, with 4 or more #3 camalots recommended for pitch 3, 1 skyhook, 1 bathook, alpine etriers, jumars, 1 long blade was used, but isn't really necessary. You can do the route and rap the standard descent line with one 70m rope.