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Routes in Baron Spire aka Old Smoothie

Baron Falls Tower T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Deliverance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Lawdogs' Lament 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1-2
SE Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1+ PG13
Tall Boys and Breakfast Burritos T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A1-2

Description

This gorgeous hunk of granite is the preeminent spire in this sector of the Sawtooths, and is home to several noteworthy routes. The ubiquitous Fred Beckey, accompanied by Pete Schoening and Jack Schwabland, were the first to the summit of Baron Spire (which they dubbed Old Smoothie) and several other formations in the vicinity. One of Baron's most unique and imposing aspects is its summit block, which is actually a massive boulder perched atop the ridge crest. This 120' tall block is composed of bullet orange granite which overhangs on all sides and is entirely absent of cracks. Over three days in the summer of 1949, Beckey and companions surmounted the summit block via a 22 bolt ladder, which to this day remains the only access to the summit.
Prominent Sawtooth pioneer Reid Dowdle has replaced many of the old bolts, but you'll still have to aid up on some pretty manky pieces, including the infamous drill-bit...just keep in mind the mantra "No Cumbre, No Ruta".

There are now ten recorded routes on Baron Spire. Beckey climbed the South Ridge to the summit block. There is apparently a line up the aesthetic northwest face. Dowdle's north ridge route "The Destroying Angel" V, 5.11 is the Sawtooth's longest free climb at 18 pitches. The Fang is a smaller pillar on the north side, with a six-pitch line which doesn't summit the actual spire. The sunny southeast face holds five grade III routes on excellent rock.

Baron Lake, the middle of the three Baron Lakes, offers several nice campsites and good fishing opportunities. From here, it's a stiff 900' slog uphill to the base of the east face routes--approx. 45 minutes. From the lake, you can contour up the ridge and across to the notch between Baron and Peak 9211' to drop down to the North Ridge and other routes.

Getting There

From Redfish Lake, hike up the manicured trail to the Alpine Lakes and continue over a small pass and drop into the Baron Lakes. It's approximately 9 miles, but generally goes quickly and takes between 4-5 hours.

5 Total Climbs

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
Where can I get some details on this Destroying Angel route? Aug 12, 2015

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