Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Waiting for one
Page Views: 693 total · 5/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Jul 30, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Left of Tricks Are For Kids is a left-leaning seam that quickly disappears into blankness. Very difficult but semi-safe climbing leads well above the last protection to a 5.11X finish. A number of years ago I worked out the moves and the protection which is small but solid in the seam but non-existent after the crux.

I am writing this route/project up to encourage anyone who is looking for a genuinely difficult, headpoint-style route in the Boulder area. I also want to discourage anyone from bolting this line as a top-rope is easily set up. This project will be quite difficult and fairly dangerous to lead. I think this is a great example of the kind of pitch that should not have bolts added.

Location

Protection

Small stoppers, Aliens--best to work out the gear on rappel.

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