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Routes in Canyon Block

Blues for Allah S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Canyon Block Project T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Damaged Goods T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Israel T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Palestine T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Rude Boy T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Scorcher T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shallow Jam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tricks are for Kids T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Wallflower S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Waiting for one
Page Views: 653 total, 6/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Jul 30, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Left of Tricks Are For Kids is a left-leaning seam that quickly disappears into blankness. Very difficult but semi-safe climbing leads well above the last protection to a 5.11X finish. A number of years ago I worked out the moves and the protection which is small but solid in the seam but non-existent after the crux.

I am writing this route/project up to encourage anyone who is looking for a genuinely difficult, headpoint-style route in the Boulder area. I also want to discourage anyone from bolting this line as a top-rope is easily set up. This project will be quite difficult and fairly dangerous to lead. I think this is a great example of the kind of pitch that should not have bolts added.

Location

This is between Blues for Allah and Tricks are for Kids.

Protection

Small stoppers, Aliens--best to work out the gear on rappel.

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