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Routes in Canyon Block

Blues for Allah S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Canyon Block Project T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Damaged Goods T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Israel T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Palestine T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Rude Boy T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Scorcher T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shallow Jam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tricks are for Kids T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Wallflower S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Nick Martino
Page Views: 752 total, 9/month
Shared By: jenn flemming on Apr 12, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The route was climbed as a head-point. It starts to the right of Blues of Allah on a small chunk of pretty, lichen-splattered rock. It climbs up into an obvious little seam, which takes small RPs that will protect the crux. Hard climbing follows the fading seam up and left until the route meets the vertical crack on Blues of Allah. Easier climbing leads to the top-out. The crux on the route is protected (the fall on small gear has been taken), but the climbing above is not.

Location

The route is located on the Milk Dud, or Canyon Block on the right side of the block. It is a vertical face with bolted lines on both the far left and far right.

Protection

There is a one-bolt anchor and a solid tree on top of the block that can easily be accessed walking around right.

A variety of small RPs will allow you to build a little nest in the seam down low. This protects the hard climbing on both Palestine and Israel. At the top of Palestine, a yellow Alien-sized cam fits in the vertical seam and offers protection for the upper climbing and the top out.

An anchor can be built at the base (in the crack down right) in order to weight RPs in the correct direction in case the climber falls in the crux. We used a couple bigger cams and some cord.

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