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Routes in Promised Area

Chinese Style T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Esse Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gemini Crack - Left T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gemini Crack - Rt. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Head T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last Tango S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mind Shaft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Promised T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reunification T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Cal Swoager & John Govi, 1984
Page Views: 870 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jon St John on Jun 25, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

A mix of crack and face climbing make this route a super-pleasure! Most of the guide books say to start in the middle-to-left part of the face, although it is possible to start in the crack on the right and traverse to the left. At any rate, a series of thought-provoking and interesting moves lead to a short finger-crack that splits the face. Embrace the crack with good finger-locks, or go one-hand-in, one-hand-out to reach the top of the crack. Continue up the face to shuts.

This route is a bit tricky/heady at the start, but can be adequately protected throughout.

Location

The route is on a large face, climber's left from Gemini cracks. This route is best identified by locating the short crack (10-15 feet) that splits the face.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 1". If you traverse from the right, a 2" piece is helpful in the wide crack. Bring a handful of slings to avoid rope drag. Shuts at top.

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