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Routes in Promised Area

Chinese Style T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Esse Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gemini Crack - Left T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gemini Crack - Rt. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Head T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last Tango S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mind Shaft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Promised T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reunification T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Cal Swoager
Page Views: 944 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jon St John on Jun 2, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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19 Opinions

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Description

This routes looks intimating compared to Gemini Right, but excellent protection and fun moves makes this a must-do. In my mind, there are two distinct cruxes, one down low, about 15 feet off the deck, and the second at the main bulge about 2/3 of the way up. The first crux is a delicate, balancy move, and the second is more mental as you surmount the bulge.

Location

Just left of Gemini Right. Obvious thin finger-crack.

Protection

Excellent protection. Mostly small-mid size cams/nuts, but you may want a 2 or 3 up top, as I recall. Shuts at top, shared with Gemini Right.

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Pnelson    
This route made it into the Weekend Whipper lineup!
rockandice.com/weekend-whip… May 23, 2017
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
 
Right is more awkward and tenuous, but the left is more powerful. I think, however, that both are harder than Maranatha. Apr 15, 2010
DaveB  
Both Cater and Thompson guides rate Gemini LEFT (5.10c), and Gemini RIGHT (5.10a). Last I did these routes, I agreed with their ratings and thought LEFT was more difficult. Mar 20, 2009
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The Cater guide may have Gemini Right and Left ratings switched. I found that the left route was much easier than right. Jul 6, 2008