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Routes in The Pride Enclave

Devotion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Pipi Pocket S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Usul S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 2000 ft, 15 pitches
FA: Alex Catlin, Nathalie Challulau, Magic Ed Wright, & Jimmy Carse - 2004
Page Views: 610 total, 5/month
Shared By: Sean Hible on Jun 2, 2008
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

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Description

This sustained adventure climb is a true test-piece for those not at the Sendero Luminoso level but still looking for a challenge. Follows a series of corners and dihedrals up the Cebolla Buttress and to the top of the ridge. Furthermore, it boasts the Universal Siesta Cave atop Pitch 11 for a mid-day nap to escape the sun...just make sure you don't sleep too long or you'll never see the summit! Super cool and really unique route worth the effort


Pitch 1 (5.8): First bolt is hard to see and about 15' up. Climbs dark slab (can link P1+2)
Pitch 2 (10b): Trend up and right in crack features to the face before reaching anchors on the left
Pitch 3 (11c): Continue up the leftmost bolt line into the huge corner followed by sinker pockets up high
Pitch 4 (10b): Start in crack and move right onto face before returning to crack before the anchor. Stay in crack for easier variation. (can link P4+5)
Pitch 5 (11b): Trend up and right over bulge to small ledge. Very short pitch
Pitch 6 (5.9): Move up and left. Short pitch. Be wary of the rotten fixed line up into the garden.
Pitch 7 (3rd class): *important* look for blocky, multi-colored, left-facing dihedral on the right. Don't be mislead into heading towards the orange overhang w/ unknown bolt-line
Pitch 8 (11a): Follow dihedral feature up and past a tricky face crux (can link P8+9)
Pitch 9 (11b): Continue up dihedrals to glory lie-back top section before anchors
Pitch 10 (11c): Green climbing up the crack onto a ledge with the Siesta Cave. Some more loose blocks on this one (can link P10+11)
Pitch 11 (5.9): Vegetated climbing with some more loose blocks (worst pitch of the route)
Pitch 12 (10d): Face climb up dark rock. 45m pitch
Pitch 13 (10c): Climb up and left over orange rock into corner system. Little bit spicy up here!
Pitch 14 (11b): Make techy moves up and left before jug hauling on blocks above the roof
Pitch 15 (10b): Follow corner through jugs to the palm tree summit

Descent: Rap the route w/ double 70's. At the 13th belay, do two raps straight down utilizing rap station on the face 25' right of the palm tree. Continue down route till the top of the 3rd pitch. From here go straight down to one of the Pride Enclave anchors, and then continue.

Disclaimer: This route is neither as difficult or as sketchy as the books or other reviews say. I did it gathering beta for the new guidebook and together with my partner concluded it is a 5.11c, 15 pitch route (*possibly* PG-13 rated and DEFINITELY NOT R-Rated). We had to have been the first party on this route in years because we did a fair bit of gardening on a couple of the upper pitches...but eh...adventure climbing. Also don't get rocked by sleeping in the Siesta Cave for too long; we're convinced this is why people never finish the route.

Location

Same as for Pride Enclave. Begin the route on the dark slab ~20' right of the memorial cave.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

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