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Routes in Dolomite Spire

Campground Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Dolofright T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Kor Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott Sholes & Bryan Ferguson Sept. 9, 1984
Page Views: 935 total, 8/month
Shared By: Bryan Ferguson on May 15, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Decent route that adds two pitches to the Kor Route. I recall some pretty thin nailing and hand crack climbing.

Location

It takes the most prominent line to the notch between the Dolomite and Lighthouse towers.

Protection

We used pitons (few), tri-cams and nuts.

Photos

Kelsey Sheely
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8 A3
Kelsey Sheely   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8 A3
We didn't see any one "prominent" line when we headed up to the base. I think we could have taken at least 3 or 4 different routes to the notch. After some deliberation we decided on one that seemed to have a few pin scars and seemed like the most promising. If we had more #3 nuts, it seems the route we chose would have been much more secure. As it was, I think A3 is about right. It also seemed to me that it could definitely be free climbed by someone a bit more skilled than myself. I would say P1 is in the 5.12 range and P2 is 5.11. Feb 21, 2013
We felt confident at the time (1984) that this was an FA to the notch. We found no piton scarring or other evidence of climbers before us. It's disputed so we would certainly defer to the great one - Kor himself! May 15, 2008