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Routes in Dolomite Spire

Campground Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Dolofright T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Kor Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Layton Kor, Joy Kor, Kordell Kor - April 11, 1969
Page Views: 4,906 total, 32/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on May 10, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a good 4-pitch route which offers a typical desert clean aid climbing experience. Be prepared to be out of your aiders.

Pitch 1) Climb 20 feet to a chimney with a floor and walk/scramble over to a belay on the ridge between Dolomite Spire and Lighthouse Tower. (5.8)

Pitch 2) Climb a thin crack angling up and right past a couple fixed pins. (At this point, Dolofright follows newer bolts up and left) Move right and up via pin scars and small nuts to the obvious horizontal band. Traverse right past a bolt to a right facing corner and follow this another 10 feet to the belay. (C2)

Pitch 3) Continue up the right facing, right leaning dihedral via fixed pins, high steps and tri-cams. Climb around the corner to a bolt ladder which leads to a solid anchor above a loose ledge. (C1+)

Pitch 4) Traverse right on a good ledge past a fixed pin to the corner of Dolomite Spire facing Big Bend Butte. Climb up past a bolt and mantle onto a small ledge right on the corner of the tower. (very airy) Continue via aid and free moves past a loose block to the summit. (rock shoes helpful) (5.8, C2)

Descent:Two double rope rappels. Rappel to the notch between Big Bend Butte and Dolomite Spire, then to the ground on east side of tower. (away from road)

Protection

One set of nuts (large brass offsets helpful). 6 small-to-mid-size Tricams including 2 pink. Two sets of cams from Blue Alien to #2 Camalot (#3 Camalot optional). One set of small-to-mid-size TCUs. Extra free biners and a dozen slings/draws with biners. A few tie-offs.
More Pictures and a TR at
piquaclimber.net/past/dolom… Feb 16, 2006
I tried to solo this over the weekend, however, I ran into a couple of problems. It was really sketchy to climb the first pitch with snow all over it. It was very exciting. On the second pitch I realized that I had forgotten my tricams down in the car (not owning any offset cams). Into the 3rd pitch I tried to use my offset nuts to get to the bolt ladder, however, the placements seemed super scary with this type of gear. Tricams or offset cams would have been perfect. I decided to down-climb and rap off. It would have been possible to make it up past that section but each piece that I had, had a 90 - 95% chance of blowing.

The moral of the story; make sure that you bring a set of offset cams or tricams (or even some hooks for a scarier ascent)! Dec 29, 2013
gregsmiller
Louisville
gregsmiller   Louisville
leave the tricams at home, and instead bring at least one set of offset cams (a full set of metolious master cams are what i used) fell into perfect placements on the 1st and 2nd pitches. All fixed gear in place is good, there was a fixed sling on the bolt on the p4 traverse that is broken, now you have to do an exciting step up on the arete and reach out left to clip bolt. The approach from the backside is leasurely and scenic, about 45min. Rack: Tie offs were nice but not neccesary, offset cams, small selection of small/med nuts, blue alien-#3 with doubles from .5-#1 If you had a double set of offset cams there would be no need for any other small gear. Just a suggestion. Free climbing that is needed, is easy enough in approach shoes. Would be worth bringing webbing to replace both rap anchors. Rappelling from the top, to the notch between dolomite spire and big bend butte is easy. 2 double rope raps to ground, ending on back side. Makes for a good solo tower. Sep 23, 2013
D'ja ever solo it, Greg? How was it? May 25, 2012
Greg,
I climbed it twice and my friend, Scott, soloed it once. I think it is a good solo. Apr 28, 2012
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
 
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
 
I found one hook to be useful too, overall a sweet route. Sep 5, 2005