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Routes in Dolomite Spire
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Campground Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Dolofright T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Kor Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Layton Kor, Joy Kor, Kordell Kor - April 11, 1969 |
| Page Views: | 8,103 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Brandewie on May 10, 2005 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is a good 4-pitch route which offers a typical desert clean aid climbing experience. Be prepared to be out of your aiders.
Pitch 1) Climb 20 feet to a chimney with a floor and walk/scramble over to a belay on the ridge between Dolomite Spire and Lighthouse Tower. (5.8)
Pitch 2) Climb a thin crack angling up and right past a couple fixed pins. (At this point, Dolofright follows newer bolts up and left) Move right and up via pin scars and small nuts to the obvious horizontal band. Traverse right past a bolt to a right facing corner and follow this another 10 feet to the belay. (C2)
Pitch 3) Continue up the right facing, right leaning dihedral via fixed pins, high steps and tri-cams. Climb around the corner to a bolt ladder which leads to a solid anchor above a loose ledge. (C1+)
Pitch 4) Traverse right on a good ledge past a fixed pin to the corner of Dolomite Spire facing Big Bend Butte. Climb up past a bolt and mantle onto a small ledge right on the corner of the tower. (very airy) Continue via aid and free moves past a loose block to the summit. (rock shoes helpful) (5.8, C2)
Descent:Two double rope rappels. Rappel to the notch between Big Bend Butte and Dolomite Spire, then to the ground on east side of tower. (away from road)
Pitch 1) Climb 20 feet to a chimney with a floor and walk/scramble over to a belay on the ridge between Dolomite Spire and Lighthouse Tower. (5.8)
Pitch 2) Climb a thin crack angling up and right past a couple fixed pins. (At this point, Dolofright follows newer bolts up and left) Move right and up via pin scars and small nuts to the obvious horizontal band. Traverse right past a bolt to a right facing corner and follow this another 10 feet to the belay. (C2)
Pitch 3) Continue up the right facing, right leaning dihedral via fixed pins, high steps and tri-cams. Climb around the corner to a bolt ladder which leads to a solid anchor above a loose ledge. (C1+)
Pitch 4) Traverse right on a good ledge past a fixed pin to the corner of Dolomite Spire facing Big Bend Butte. Climb up past a bolt and mantle onto a small ledge right on the corner of the tower. (very airy) Continue via aid and free moves past a loose block to the summit. (rock shoes helpful) (5.8, C2)
Descent:Two double rope rappels. Rappel to the notch between Big Bend Butte and Dolomite Spire, then to the ground on east side of tower. (away from road)
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