Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Layton Kor, Joy Kor, Kordell Kor - April 11, 1969
Page Views: 6,320 total · 34/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on May 10, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a good 4-pitch route which offers a typical desert clean aid climbing experience. Be prepared to be out of your aiders.

Pitch 1) Climb 20 feet to a chimney with a floor and walk/scramble over to a belay on the ridge between Dolomite Spire and Lighthouse Tower. (5.8)

Pitch 2) Climb a thin crack angling up and right past a couple fixed pins. (At this point, Dolofright follows newer bolts up and left) Move right and up via pin scars and small nuts to the obvious horizontal band. Traverse right past a bolt to a right facing corner and follow this another 10 feet to the belay. (C2)

Pitch 3) Continue up the right facing, right leaning dihedral via fixed pins, high steps and tri-cams. Climb around the corner to a bolt ladder which leads to a solid anchor above a loose ledge. (C1+)

Pitch 4) Traverse right on a good ledge past a fixed pin to the corner of Dolomite Spire facing Big Bend Butte. Climb up past a bolt and mantle onto a small ledge right on the corner of the tower. (very airy) Continue via aid and free moves past a loose block to the summit. (rock shoes helpful) (5.8, C2)

Descent:Two double rope rappels. Rappel to the notch between Big Bend Butte and Dolomite Spire, then to the ground on east side of tower. (away from road)

Protection

One set of nuts (large brass offsets helpful). 6 small-to-mid-size Tricams including 2 pink. Two sets of cams from Blue Alien to #2 Camalot (#3 Camalot optional). One set of small-to-mid-size TCUs. Extra free biners and a dozen slings/draws with biners. A few tie-offs.

Photos