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Routes in The Sanctuary (of Eternal Bliss and Happiness)

Backbone of the West S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Big Pink T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brown Arete, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Centerfire S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Cock the Hammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornered and Cleaved S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Empire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Foundation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gemini Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goinggoinggone T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lathe of Heaven, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Jewel of Mr. Texas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Obscured By Cloud S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Jewel of Mr. Texas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rimfire S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Secret Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seldon Plan, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smirk S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stiff Upper Lip S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Terminus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Time and Materials S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob Branscomb
Page Views: 169 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tom Rangitsch on Mar 31, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Red slab route that faces up canyon. Crux is at the 3rd or 4th bolt, with a cool hand switch/reach through move. There is an upper pitch to this route and a crack to its left that shares the anchor with this route.

Protection

bolts

Photos

SteveBechtel
  5.11c/d
SteveBechtel  
  5.11c/d
Has anyone done this without the A0 move? I was able to do it last week - think it's probably 11c or d. Such a good route! May 24, 2013
climb this route. good stone and great moves! Nov 15, 2012
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
  5.10b
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
  5.10b
On 9/9/12 Mark Watkins demonstrated his remarkable patience while I linked Obscured and Nimbus (the extension up the steep wall above the first anchor) in one 30m pitch. I still think it is 10b. Linking them makes for a great long pitch with a lot of 5.10 in it. Need 16 clips and 2 single length runners (to minimize rope drag over the Nimbus roof). Still have the A0 pull on the bolt just past the first anchor but that doesn't detract from this climbs' high quality.

Admittedly, I have an ego as massive as anyone else around here (I am just clever at disguising it), but I consider this climb one of the best, if not the best, 5.10 in the Sinks. Sep 11, 2012
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
  5.10b
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
  5.10b
Tom: no, I didn't have any name for this area. Actually, I like the Sanctuary of Eternal Bliss thing myself. It's a cool name and sounds good to me. Looked around up there one day this winter, you guys have really put some work in up there...nice job. OK...sounds good to me................bobbo Mar 27, 2009
Tom Rangitsch
Lander, WY
 
Tom Rangitsch   Lander, WY
 
Hey Bob, Sorry if this wall has another name (not the Sanctuary). BJ Tilden and I put up a bunch of routes last year and didn't think it had a name. Do you call it something else? I can edit the info here if you do... Mar 25, 2009
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
  5.10b
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
  5.10b
yup, that was me that put this up. I called it Obscured by Cloud and thought it 10a/b. The upper section starts with an A0 pull on the bolt off the two bolt belay, enabling you to reach a good crimp up and left before proceeding over the overhang. Don't let this one move put you off though, because the climbing above is superb and exposed with a 10a move in it, all bolt protected. You can go all the way to the bolted anchor at the top of the upper section and rappel the pitch with a 60m rope. The start in the corner and then over to the first anchor I called Big Pink...about 5.8 and a 5" cam is nice for the step out of the crack to the first bolt of the traverse................bob branscomb Mar 23, 2009