Type: Trad, Sport, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Will McCarthy (1991)
Page Views: 4,164 total · 30/month
Shared By: Luis Cisneros on Mar 18, 2008 with improvements by bob roberts
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED! Details

Description

This is a phenomenal line that wanders up a low angle wall. This canyon offers fantastic views. The line itself is very fun and climbs on different kinds of granite on every pitch.

The bolts are a bit spaced, but this is not a problem if you are a comfortable 5.9 climber. If you get lost, keep looking, in most cases you should be able to spot the next bolt from any given one. When the route is not clear, the climbing is easy, so just follow the 'easy-way' up and you surely will find the next bolt or belay station. All anchors are bolted.

The first pitch is kind of the hardest one for your head, and maybe the most sustained one. The rest will feel more smooth and consistently easy face climbing, though a bit flaky in places and a few short crux moves here and there... nothing is harder than 5.8/5.9(-)

The last pitch finishes on the big ledge under the rock feature on the top. You can scramble around the west side of this feature to summit. Great views from there, is really worth it!

Location

The route starts close bellow of some brown water streak marks on the middle-right side of the wall. There is an obvious roof at the base of the streaks. The first bolt of Wily is about 30 feet left of the roof. This bolt is about 30 feet up from the base but the climbing is easy (the actual roof is the first pitch of Table for Two).

From the top, there is a rap line (5 raps) down over Table for Two that is save and goes straight down. You will need two ropes to rap down.

Protection

The line is all bolted. A few nuts and plenty of slings for chicken heads come handy.
All the anchors are bolted.
on march 24 2017 Bob Crawford and Josh Thrash put quick links and 3/8 rappel rings on all belay stations of Wily Javelina and removed the old webbing wads. Bob Crawford, Valdez alpine club.

Also, most bolts are new.

Photos