Elevation: 3,576 ft
GPS: 31.985, -111.515 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 29,580 total · 146/month
Shared By: Micah on Nov 18, 2002
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Access Issue: Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED! Details

Description

Mendoza Canyon is a rugged area of granite domes with great climbing and adventure for backcountry climbers. BLM-administered, as part of the Coyote Domes Wilderness area. Routes vary in length from 2 to 8 pitches with most in the higher end of that range. A wide variety of difficulty can be found as well, from fun 5.6 to scary, runout 5.11. There are also aid routes for those wishing to carry more gear.

Some of the aproaches follow fairly well developed trails. Others still require bushwhacking and having your belay gloves handy during the hike might not be a bad idea.

The descent for many of the climbs involves rappelling the route. Most belay stations are more than half a rope length apart so bring 2 ropes. 50 meter lengths are standard for the area. Bolted rappel stations do not usually have chains and the low volume of climbers in the area means the slings are usually pretty old by the time the next climber gets to them. Be sure to bring enough webbing to get down safely. New route development is still active. A traditional style has been maintained and is greatly appreciated in the area.

Getting There

Updated 3-1-14

See Approach Map below in "Photos" section.

Take Ajo way west from Tucson to Three Points. Turn South on Hwy 286. Follow 286 for about 8 mi and turn West at the (KING'S ANVIL RANCH AT MP 37.6---NOT KING'S RANCH WHICH COMES FIRST). Follow a good dirt road through the ranch, stopping to sign in and get a permit (free), at the back gate. A State Land permit is officially required to pass thru the area. (azland.gov/programs/natural… ) ( Continue west (0.8 MILES) through the wash, passing a very small turn off then taking the first, clear road to the right. It is common to miss this turn off. (edit: As of 12-30-15 this is signed as "designated access route") Follow this road west (FOR ~ 5.5 MILES), to a fence that marks the original access area (P-1 on the map below). As of 12-30-15 this access is signed as "No Trespassing" on the gate. Veer right and cut across the mouth of the entire valley, looking for the road that cuts back left near the north end of the valley. Follow this road back into the valley area until it ends a a gate. Use the hand-drawn map below.

A sometimes faint trail leads into the original road, then to the dam at the road's end. Follow trails to the domes from here.

See comments below for extended access availability.

EXTENDED ACCESS INFORMATION / GUIDELINES - UPDATED March 2016

3.12.16 UPDATE: EXTENDED ACCESS MARCH & APRIL 2016
ALL CLIMBERS SHOULD READ AND UNDERSTAND THE RULES OUTLINED IN THE FOLLOWING DOCUMENT!
FAILURE TO COMPLY WILL LIKELY LEAD TO LOSS OF ACCESS TO MENDOZA CANYON FOR CLIMBING!!!!

AZ FISH AND GAME ACCESS RESTRICTIONS!!!

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote Domes)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote Domes) »

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Photos