Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote Domes) Rock Climbing
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|Shared By:||Micah on Nov 18, 2002|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
READ THIS DOCUMENT AND OBEY!
Update from Jeff Mayhew 3.12.14:
Extended Access Info
Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at firstname.lastname@example.org to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.
You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.
Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
Some of the aproaches follow fairly well developed trails. Others still require bushwhacking and having your belay gloves handy during the hike might not be a bad idea.
The descent for many of the climbs involves rappelling the route. Most belay stations are more than half a rope length apart so bring 2 ropes. 50 meter lengths are standard for the area. Bolted rappel stations do not usually have chains and the low volume of climbers in the area means the slings are usually pretty old by the time the next climber gets to them. Be sure to bring enough webbing to get down safely. New route development is still active. A traditional style has been maintained and is greatly appreciated in the area.
See Approach Map below in "Photos" section.
Take Ajo way west from Tucson to Three Points. Turn South on Hwy 286. Follow 286 for about 8 mi and turn West at the (KING'S ANVIL RANCH AT MP 37.6---NOT KING'S RANCH WHICH COMES FIRST). Follow a good dirt road through the ranch, stopping to sign in and get a permit (free), at the back gate. A State Land permit is officially required to pass thru the area. (azland.gov/programs/natural… ) ( Continue west (0.8 MILES) through the wash, passing a very small turn off then taking the first, clear road to the right. It is common to miss this turn off. (edit: As of 12-30-15 this is signed as "designated access route") Follow this road west (FOR ~ 5.5 MILES), to a fence that marks the original access area (P-1 on the map below). As of 12-30-15 this access is signed as "No Trespassing" on the gate. Veer right and cut across the mouth of the entire valley, looking for the road that cuts back left near the north end of the valley. Follow this road back into the valley area until it ends a a gate. Use the hand-drawn map below.
A sometimes faint trail leads into the original road, then to the dam at the road's end. Follow trails to the domes from here.
See comments below for extended access availability.
EXTENDED ACCESS INFORMATION / GUIDELINES - UPDATED March 2016
ALL CLIMBERS SHOULD READ AND UNDERSTAND THE RULES OUTLINED IN THE FOLLOWING DOCUMENT!
FAILURE TO COMPLY WILL LIKELY LEAD TO LOSS OF ACCESS TO MENDOZA CANYON FOR CLIMBING!!!!
AZ FISH AND GAME ACCESS RESTRICTIONS!!!
Classic Climbing Routes at Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote Domes)
Days w Precip