Beggar's Banquet
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Type: | Trad, 755 ft (229 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Chuck Lipinski, J.Mw. |
Page Views: | 3,116 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | JMayhew on Sep 23, 2008 |
Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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The access for Mendoza Canyon is via the good graces of the owner of the King Anvil Ranch you pass through to get to the canyon. Dogs are not allowed per land owner request.
READ THIS DOCUMENT AND OBEY!
concernedclimbers.com/Mendo…
Update from Jeff Mayhew 3.12.14:
Extended Access Info
Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.
You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.
Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
READ THIS DOCUMENT AND OBEY!
concernedclimbers.com/Mendo…
Update from Jeff Mayhew 3.12.14:
Extended Access Info
Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.
You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.
Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
Description
1. Diagonal right past 4 bolts, then up and slightly left, passing original 2-bolt belay to a small ledge with 2-bolts. (5.9 , 160)
2. Easy climbing wanders basically straight up past a bolt then a ¼ rivet to a large rock on a ledge and 3 bolts. (165)
3. A hidden stopper placement protects the first bulge move to easier climbing. Up past a bolt to the huge ledge and a 2-bolt belay about 30 left of main corner. (5.6+, 160)
4. Walk right a bit until you can access a diagonalling series of scoops that lead up right past 2 bolts to a crack. Up crack then diagonal left to a 2-bolt belay. (5.7, 135')
5. Up and right along ledge systems to a small bulge with pro, about 20 left of the corner. Turn bulge and climb up steep rock past bolt to another large ledge with 2-bolt belay. (5.8, 140)
4th or easy 5th class to summit. Rap the route.
2. Easy climbing wanders basically straight up past a bolt then a ¼ rivet to a large rock on a ledge and 3 bolts. (165)
3. A hidden stopper placement protects the first bulge move to easier climbing. Up past a bolt to the huge ledge and a 2-bolt belay about 30 left of main corner. (5.6+, 160)
4. Walk right a bit until you can access a diagonalling series of scoops that lead up right past 2 bolts to a crack. Up crack then diagonal left to a 2-bolt belay. (5.7, 135')
5. Up and right along ledge systems to a small bulge with pro, about 20 left of the corner. Turn bulge and climb up steep rock past bolt to another large ledge with 2-bolt belay. (5.8, 140)
4th or easy 5th class to summit. Rap the route.
Location
On the far right side of Table Dome is a huge left-facing corner about 2/3 of the way up the rock that is the end of First Come , First Served. Beggars last 2 pitches finish up about 30 to the left. Start right out of the streambed on a section of smoothe gray rock about 100 before the right side of the dome.
Rap the route with double-ropes.
Rap the route with double-ropes.
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