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Routes in Tijeras Peak

Astromarmot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Black and White Movies T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
El Camino de Cabra T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Ichiban T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Kiss of the Lion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wild, Immaculate T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brent Wise, J C Wilks, Denise Wilks - July 5, 1999
Page Views: 2,165 total · 18/month
Shared By: J C Wilks on Feb 23, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start at the top right of the snowfield at +/-12,600 ft. Fourth Class it up a right-leaning, narrow ramp to a good stance. Trend left for two pitches across a face then a crack to the right end of the slabby, diagonal ramp. Follow the top of the ramp for a long pitch then a short pitch before you reach the left end, to stop below a hopefully dry, waterfall trough. Go straight up this crux pitch. Another pitch takes you to the top of the east ridge. Simulclimb to the summit or descend NW.

Location

In the central section of the south face, left of the large obvious gully, look for a giant ramp high on the wall at about 12,600 ft.

Protection

Use a full trad rack. A few Knife Blades and Bugaboos may be useful.

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