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Routes in Tijeras Peak

Astromarmot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Black and White Movies T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
El Camino de Cabra T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Ichiban T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Kiss of the Lion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wild, Immaculate T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 550 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: J C Wilks, Denise Wilks, Brent Wise - July 6 & 7, 1999
Page Views: 770 total, 6/month
Shared By: J C Wilks on Feb 25, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

On the southeast-facing wall, find a triangular roof near a little boulder cave.

Black & White Movies starts (above the cave?) on an unprotected ramp with good features on the right. Lead on to a series of diagonal steps crossing a series of black waterstreaks on black and white gneiss. This takes you to a little step-across to a long, narrow, diagonal ledge. There is a bolted anchor at the upper end of this ledge. This first pitch borders on an X runout considering the remoteness of the area. In many places, the "cracks" are filled with moss which make them look wide from below, but they are shallow seams instead.

The second pitch (5.7) goes from the right end of the ledge, continuing past a large triangular flake to the right and diagonally up to a slopey belay. Aim to the right toward a diagonal ramp of progressively easier climbing. This route ends behind a minor high point on the lower east ridge. If you look up from the south shore of Lower Sand Creek Lake, this point appears as though it is the pinnacle of a tower. Scrambling up on to it gives you a commanding view of the lake below.

Descend to the NW.

Location

On the southeast-facing wall of the lower east ridge at about 12,400 Ft., find a triangular roof near a little boulder cave. Black & White Movies starts (above the cave?) below and right of the triangular roof on an unprotected ramp.

Protection

Full trad rack including slider nuts and short blades.

Photos

Ben Bruestle
Pueblo, CO
Ben Bruestle   Pueblo, CO
Allan Haverfield and Mark Johnson from the SLV did a line with a similar description in the mid '90s. Mar 11, 2008