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Routes in (6) Far East Wall

Orient Express S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 137 total · 1/month
Shared By: rl23455 on Feb 16, 2008
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

bring a brush

Location

see beta photo.

Protection

Quickdraws. Bolt Anchor.

Photos

Vince Schreck
Portland, OR
Vince Schreck   Portland, OR
I totally agree with das1405. You'll know you're on the right climb, because it starts on the platform with a tree, and right below the platform is a short climb Tiger's Eye 5.10b. From the top, there is a big tree you can use to top rope the climb. Watch for sap!

Concerning the grade, yes, it seems closer to 5.9 or maybe 5.10a. It has an awkward start in a finger crack, some smearing on dirty slab, awkward holds above, and some strange clips. I wouldn't want to lead it, because it felt very insecure with all the dirt. Aug 23, 2016
das1405
Portland
  5.8+ PG13
das1405   Portland
  5.8+ PG13
Not a terrible climb IMO.
A couple of Pros: would be a really good spot to take beginners to rappel. easy set up and nice ledge at bottom of climb or can easily rappel down to forest floor (60m will hit floor); good tree backup; very clean on top and bottom (for RB)
Cons: Very dirty (it rained briefly on us and our shoes got pretty muddy on climb out); if you TR route add directional to top bolt or risk a big swing if you fall on the ascent; Hard for the grade IMO, wouldn't recommend the climb for beginners, some awkward holds and technical footwork on a dirty slab. Apr 21, 2016