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Routes in Hero Maker Wall

Dark Divine T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Deadline T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Life is a Journey T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maiden Misery S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Redline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Second Hand Hero T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft
FA: Jeremy Collins, Robo Oblennis, Jared Sickler
Page Views: 584 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jer Collins on Jan 20, 2008
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


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Description

A long route, intersecting three roofs, with a wide variety of climbing in it's 90 or so feet.

Start off a rock stack to avoid the rotten rock at the base. A sharp, mailbox rail on the left leads right through some interesting moves leading out the first ceiling. After a nice, featured face, you come to an un-needed, but available set of anchors. You can belay here, or skip it and clip the first bolt in the second roof and start making your way out. After surmounting the awkward exit to the left(including difficult clip); the holds gradually get larger as does the exposure.

Take a good breath- it's not over yet. Large holds and some gear lead up to the third roof and a final bolt. The finish is not so difficult by itself, but you may have a fair amount of blood built up in your forearms at this point, so tough it out through the lay-back and mantle finish to a set of anchors looking out over the whole valley.

This route is absolutely impossible to clean on rappel or lower due to it's length, left trending line, and steepness.

Location

Find the route "Redline", the huge arcing dihedral. Deadline crosses through the ceiling in the middle of this route.

Protection

First half- 6 bolts(stickclip start)
second half-a small rack of cams to 3.5"
anchor half way, rap anchor at top

Photos

Jer Collins
  5.12a/b
Jer Collins  
  5.12a/b
fixed draws added to the second ceiling, 5/08 May 26, 2008

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