Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Ao Nang Tower

Orange Chandeliers S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: P1 Dean Saydom & Will Hair 2/94, P2 Paul Brunner & Marcel Eckhardt 12/96, P3 Paul Brunner & Trevor Massiah 10/97
Page Views: 2,656 total, 22/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jan 9, 2008
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


23 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

Climb out of the boat on the right side of the tower to an anchor about 10 ft out of the water. You can belay your second up from here. From here traverse left ~50 feet with a fixed line and threads to clip, about 5.7. We belayed this section but it could easily be solo'd as you are above water after all.

Pitch 1 5.10d 10 bolts, 105 feet.
Climb upwards on tufas and stalactites, pulling a few steeper bulges along the way.

Pitch 2 5.11a 6 bolts 60 feet
Negotiate the steep start, then head up easier ground to the next anchor.

Pitch 3 5.11b 11 bolts 80 feet
Continue up through another steep bulge, to some easier ground. Hit the first crux where the steepness becomes vertical, the holds dramatically shrink in size, and the rock becomes sharp. Snag a rest on the next moderate section which goes back to the nice orange limestone and pull the final steep moves to the anchor.

Location

On the left side of the Tower. The boatman should know where to drop you off.
The guides mention using 2 ropes to rappel from pitch 2, to try and keep your ropes dry, If I was to do it again I would only bring 1 70m rope and rappel with it on the last rap into the boat.

Rappel from the top pitch to Pitch 2, backclip a few bolts to maintain contact with the wall. From here you could rap to the ocean with two ropes or rappel back to the start of the route and do a short rappel back into the boat. All anchors are set up for rappel.

Protection

Bolts & Anchors, Take around 12 draws. This route was rebolted in 2/2000. There are plenty of bolts to choose from, make sure you choose the right ones.
Try to do this climb at high tide and you will get to skip the crux, which is getting off the damn kayak onto the starting ledge. From the starting ledge, there are fix ropes going to the bottom of orange chandelier. Very easy climbing/walking along the ledge; clip the fix line for safety though.

Pitch 1: easy 6A climbing and great movement. Enjoy it!

Pitch 2: A decent ledge here good for rope and belaying. The roofs may seem intimidating but big jugs are everywhere! This should be a good lead for any 6B climber.

Pitch 3: The hardest pitch. A tricky pull at the roof and a not so obvious face climbing section. Big holds are actually not that big. However, any confident 6C sport climber should manage. The top of the 3rd pitch is just an exposed face so unless you want to share a summit pic with your buddy, it is better to lower off and skip one unnecessary rappel.

At all anchors, there are big rings for belaying and rappelling. You can rappel with a single 70m but be sure to back-clip on your way down from pitch 3-2 and 2-1 otherwise you're gonna have a bad time.

Also start early and finish before noon unless you're looking to get really tan.

Seriously an awesome climb! Also btw, the kayak rental from Ao Nang for half day (4 hours) is 800THB. 3 days ago
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, Thailand
  5.11a/b
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, Thailand
  5.11a/b
Really fun climb. We did it with a single 70m rope. Pitch 1 and 2 can probably be combined if you manage your rope well/extend your pros.

We rented a Kayak from Ao Nang for 400thb (half day). This thing can easily be done sub 3 hours beach-to-beach if you move at a good pace. First two pitches were soft but the last one was quite desperate going to the anchor!

The crux is getting off/on the Kayak if the tide is low.

Krabi's classic for sure. 4 days ago
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Agree with comment above - though there are better multi-pitch climbs in Tonsai, this is a unique and worthwhile outing.

Rent a kayak in Tonsai (400 baht/day), not in Ao Nang (1000 baht/day). Feb 26, 2017
J-Wright  
 
I have to say I think this route is about as much fun as you can have sport climbing. My brother and I grinned the whole way up.

Also, I think these rating are a bit sugar-bagged - don't know that there was a pitch over 10d/11a.

FYI, we rented a kayak and rowed out ourselves. Can't do the cool rap/pull ropes into the boat trick, but fun too. Nov 24, 2010