Type: Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: P1 Dean Saydom & Will Hair 2/94, P2 Paul Brunner & Marcel Eckhardt 12/96, P3 Paul Brunner & Trevor Massiah 10/97
Page Views: 5,035 total · 29/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jan 9, 2008
Admins: Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

Climb out of the boat on the right side of the tower to an anchor about 10 ft out of the water. You can belay your second up from here. From here traverse left ~50 feet with a fixed line and threads to clip, about 5.7. We belayed this section but it could easily be solo'd as you are above water after all.

Pitch 1 5.10d 10 bolts, 105 feet.
Climb upwards on tufas and stalactites, pulling a few steeper bulges along the way.

Pitch 2 5.11a 6 bolts 60 feet
Negotiate the steep start, then head up easier ground to the next anchor.

Pitch 3 5.11b 11 bolts 80 feet
Continue up through another steep bulge, to some easier ground. Hit the first crux where the steepness becomes vertical, the holds dramatically shrink in size, and the rock becomes sharp. Snag a rest on the next moderate section which goes back to the nice orange limestone and pull the final steep moves to the anchor.

Location

On the left side of the Tower. The boatman should know where to drop you off.
The guides mention using 2 ropes to rappel from pitch 2, to try and keep your ropes dry, If I was to do it again I would only bring 1 70m rope and rappel with it on the last rap into the boat.

Rappel from the top pitch to Pitch 2, backclip a few bolts to maintain contact with the wall. From here you could rap to the ocean with two ropes or rappel back to the start of the route and do a short rappel back into the boat. All anchors are set up for rappel.

Protection

Bolts & Anchors, Take around 12 draws. This route was rebolted in 2/2000. There are plenty of bolts to choose from, make sure you choose the right ones.

Photos