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All Locations > International > North America > Mexico > Northern Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > The Dihedrals

Dead Man Walking

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British


 Avg: 3.4 from 87 votes

Routes in The Dihedrals

All Cracked Up And No Place To Go! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ass Hat's Chossy Dihedral S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bicho Borracho S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crack a Mole S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cumbia S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dead Man Walking T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monica Lewinsky's Crack S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Osito T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Remember The Alamo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Texas Tumble, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 135 ft
FA: Rodney Blakemore, Ed Wright &Ismael Garza 98
Page Views: 9,950 total · 77/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jan 1, 2008
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

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Description

Dead Man Walking is the route that makes the walk to the Dihedrals worth it but only if you enjoy bolt-protected, great crack climbing in a nice corner. It's a beautiful line following a pair of good cracks up a long dihedral.
Start out on lower angle but polished rock following the bolted cracks through a couple of bulges before making a few positive face moves left out of the dihedral to the anchors. There isn't one real crux move, it's just sustained crack and corner climbing the whole way.

Location

Dead Man Walking is near the center of The Dihedrals area. It's the obvious, long bolted dihedral just right of a super clean bolted face open project. Note the length of the route--you will need a 70m rope or two 60m ropes to get down.

Protection

16 bolts to chain anchor on a sloping ledge at the top.

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Leading up the goodness that is Dead Man Walking.
Leading up the goodness that is Dead Man Walking.
 1
miss G doing her thing on dead-man
miss G doing her thing on dead-man
 0
A beautifully sustained and long route.
A beautifully sustained and long route.
 0

5 Comments

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Michael G
Michael G  
a bolted crack? is gear necessary for any part of it? Mar 13, 2008
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
this crack would be a "G" rated gear lead; and like nearly every other route at the dihredrals, it has seen gear ascents. However, it was bolted on the assumption that almost nobody brings gear to Potrero, and it is still a wonderful line. no gear needed.

Also, as I remember, not even a 70m will get you back to the ground, although it is possible to downclimb the initial slab for 20 feet after untying. Apr 17, 2008
Richard Fernandez
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Richard Fernandez   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
A 70 will get you down with a bit to spare. Nov 30, 2009
t.schwartz
  5.9
t.schwartz  
  5.9
awesome climb, I didn't know that limestone cracks this smooth existed. Apr 9, 2010
Dan Petty
Wheat Ridge, CO
 
Dan Petty   Wheat Ridge, CO
 
Climbed it with a 60, but some easy downclimbing and a watchful belay are essential. Bring lots of draws... Jan 11, 2011

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