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Routes in Buffalo Park

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Dick Cilley
Page Views: 1,962 total · 16/month
Shared By: Andrew Ryder on Nov 30, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Sit start at two undercling/sidepulls and climb the black streak past a left hand crimp, finishing with a lunge to the lip. The easiest variation uses the arete for the right hand. Make it harder by eliminating the arete, or even harder by crossing right hand to the crimp and pulling through. The boulder at right is off.

Location

Around the middle of the area is a prominent cleft beneath a small roof (this is Centerpiece.) Commando starts a couple yards to the right and follows the black streak.

Protection

Good landing, pads are nice but not necessary.

Photos

Colin Cox  
 
The original Commando goes to the crimp with the right hand,...left hand to the top - the hardest way(B1). I prefer left hand to the crimp, right hand to the top, with the arete off. Same holds, different hands, much easier (V3). Add the arete and it gets even easier. Jan 14, 2010
I think the original version didn't use the corner... This always felt like it should be harder than V5 though. :) Feb 25, 2008
Dean Hoffman
  V2-3
Dean Hoffman  
  V2-3
Great problem with multiple eliminates possible, throw off the low holds, or try crossing right hand to crimp and firing to the lip, think this might be a Mattson Problem. Dec 12, 2007

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