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Routes in Organ Pipe Spire and Pipe Organ Spire

Aces & Eights T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C2 R
Ender's Game T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Organ Pipe Spire T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 PG13
Organ Pipe Spire - The Weird Fun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pipe Dream T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pipe Organ Spire - South West face T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2 PG13
Pipe Organ Spire-Southeast T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Type: Trad, Aid, 210 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Old
Page Views: 898 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

First off I soloed this route, so I was not dealing with rope drag. You may need to break up what I did in one pitch into 2.

P1. Start out climbing loose rock to a good crack and 2 great stopper placements. Pass 2 old pins the first of which held my body weight, the second I didn't touch. Pass a huge block and climb up into a chimney. At this point, place a large cam and go on the outside of the flared chimney/ow. There is no gear for the next 20-ish feet, but the climbing is not that difficult (large gear might protect it. I didn't have any and can't remember.). It appeared as if one could first climb up inside of the chimney and clip a knifeblade then downclimb and get on the outside so that the 20-ish feet were protected, but who knows how good the knifeblade is? Either way after running it out, you get to a good #3.5-4 Camalot crack. Scamper up to a ledge. Climb around big blocks and over loose rock to a chimney/tunnel in the rock. Enter. Chimney until you can squeeze through a hole onto the southside of the tower and then climb 5' more to the anchor and a ledge/stance, 190' 5.8+, C1.

P2. 20' of easy climbing leads to the summit. There is no anchor on top. Downclimb. (5.4)

Descent: rappel from the top of pitch one to the ground. The anchor consists of 3 pins one of which is drilled. I backed this up with a piece of rope someone had left slung around a large horn/pinnacle.

Location

This route climbs the north side of the spire and starts about 20' left (east) of the start for 'Pipe Organ Spire-Southeast'. The route climbs the major crack system closest to Pipe Organ Spire.

Protection

Standard desert rack, 2 x #3.5 and #4 old Camalot and one old #5 Camalot or equivalent, 2 ropes, No pins or hammer it goes clean, webbing for the anchor.

Photos

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Getting to the Pipe Dream anchor is sketchy too. "Aces & Eights" is a much better way off that side. Good ledges on the way down 3 raps with one seventy meter. May 12, 2014
Paul S
Fruita, CO
Paul S   Fruita, CO
Yeah, that anchor is sketchy. It's possible to scramble up and over to get to the anchors of Pipe Dream and rap that route. The main downside is it puts you on the other side of the tower from where this route starts. May 11, 2014
Peter Blank
Grand Junction, Colorado
 
Peter Blank   Grand Junction, Colorado
 
So maybe I'm kinda fragile, but the rap anchor is pretty bogus. We downclimbed the route about 30 feet and made a two stopper anchor to rappel from. Climb goes at 5.9ish and is really good! May 10, 2014