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Organ Pipe Spire
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Routes in Organ Pipe Spire and Pipe Organ Spire
|Aces & Eights T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C2 R|
|Ender's Game T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Organ Pipe Spire T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 PG13|
|Organ Pipe Spire - The Weird Fun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Pipe Dream T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Pipe Organ Spire - South West face T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2 PG13|
|Pipe Organ Spire-Southeast T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 210 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||898 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Kiessel on Nov 26, 2007|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionFirst off I soloed this route, so I was not dealing with rope drag. You may need to break up what I did in one pitch into 2.
P1. Start out climbing loose rock to a good crack and 2 great stopper placements. Pass 2 old pins the first of which held my body weight, the second I didn't touch. Pass a huge block and climb up into a chimney. At this point, place a large cam and go on the outside of the flared chimney/ow. There is no gear for the next 20-ish feet, but the climbing is not that difficult (large gear might protect it. I didn't have any and can't remember.). It appeared as if one could first climb up inside of the chimney and clip a knifeblade then downclimb and get on the outside so that the 20-ish feet were protected, but who knows how good the knifeblade is? Either way after running it out, you get to a good #3.5-4 Camalot crack. Scamper up to a ledge. Climb around big blocks and over loose rock to a chimney/tunnel in the rock. Enter. Chimney until you can squeeze through a hole onto the southside of the tower and then climb 5' more to the anchor and a ledge/stance, 190' 5.8+, C1.
P2. 20' of easy climbing leads to the summit. There is no anchor on top. Downclimb. (5.4)
Descent: rappel from the top of pitch one to the ground. The anchor consists of 3 pins one of which is drilled. I backed this up with a piece of rope someone had left slung around a large horn/pinnacle.
LocationThis route climbs the north side of the spire and starts about 20' left (east) of the start for 'Pipe Organ Spire-Southeast'. The route climbs the major crack system closest to Pipe Organ Spire.
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