Organ Pipe Spire

First off I soloed this route, so I was not dealing with rope drag. You may need to break up what I did in one pitch into 2.

P1. Start out climbing loose rock to a good crack and 2 great stopper placements. Pass 2 old pins the first of which held my body weight, the second I didn't touch. Pass a huge block and climb up into a chimney. At this point, place a large cam and go on the outside of the flared chimney/ow. There is no gear for the next 20-ish feet, but the climbing is not that difficult (large gear might protect it. I didn't have any and can't remember.). It appeared as if one could first climb up inside of the chimney and clip a knifeblade then downclimb and get on the outside so that the 20-ish feet were protected, but who knows how good the knifeblade is? Either way after running it out, you get to a good #3.5-4 Camalot crack. Scamper up to a ledge. Climb around big blocks and over loose rock to a chimney/tunnel in the rock. Enter. Chimney until you can squeeze through a hole onto the southside of the tower and then climb 5' more to the anchor and a ledge/stance, 190' 5.8+, C1.

P2. 20' of easy climbing leads to the summit. There is no anchor on top. Downclimb. (5.4)

Descent: rappel from the top of pitch one to the ground. The anchor consists of 3 pins one of which is drilled. I backed this up with a piece of rope someone had left slung around a large horn/pinnacle.

This route climbs the north side of the spire and starts about 20' left (east) of the start for 'Pipe Organ Spire-Southeast'. The route climbs the major crack system closest to Pipe Organ Spire.

Standard desert rack, 2 x #3.5 and #4 old Camalot and one old #5 Camalot or equivalent, 2 ropes, No pins or hammer it goes clean, webbing for the anchor.