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Routes in Organ Pipe Spire and Pipe Organ Spire

Aces & Eights T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C2 R
Ender's Game T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Organ Pipe Spire T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 PG13
Organ Pipe Spire - The Weird Fun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pipe Dream T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pipe Organ Spire - South West face T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2 PG13
Pipe Organ Spire-Southeast T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Type: Trad, Aid, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: John Auld, Gary Ziegler, Jim Dyson, John Kuglin 1961
Page Views: 729 total, 5/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 7, 2006
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Pitch 1: Climb slab to a crack, follow the crack up past two 1/4' bolts and a bulge to a ledge and an anchor. (5.10)

Pitch 2: Free past the bolts that are up and right of the anchor, until they stop. Continue on mixed free and aid, 1-2 aid moves, to another ledge and anchor. (5.10, C1)

Pitch 3: This is a really loose pitch. Climb up, staying to the right. Climb through a notch in the summit cap rock, to an anchor. (5.8+R)

Note: Desert Rock III says that this route goes free at 5.10. But pitch 2 seemed like it would be much harder than that to free. On pitch 2, the rock is loose, the crack, the holds and the gear all sort of runs out at once.

Location

This route was originaly climbed from the notch between the Pipe Organ Spire and Organ Pipe spire on the north side of the formation (which is what's described above).

Harvey Carter added a one pitch direct start to this route which starts on the southeast side of the rock formation and climbs to the same notch. The direct start appears to be a loose chimney.

(Note: the ground level on the South side of the formation is about 100' lower than it is on the North side.)

Whichever way you go whether walking or climbing, when you get to the notch between the towers, there is a bolt visible about 30' up in a wide pod, showing you the route.

Protection

Standard desert rack. I aided on small Aliens for pitch 2.

Descent: we brought two 60 meter ropes, but it looked as if 1 would have worked fine. Bring webbing to replace the existing webbing.

Photos

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The summit pitch on this route is one of the worst pitches in The Monument. Probably only 5.8 but a pretty scary 5.8. Feb 21, 2016
Mickey Guziak
Grand Junction
  5.10 C1 R
Mickey Guziak   Grand Junction
  5.10 C1 R
Bring a small-medium tricam for pitch 2. It is necessary if you are aiding. It would be possible to free, but the gear is pretty bad below it. On P3, I had no gear in that would hold a large fall, and I was about 25-30 feet runout for a pretty hard (5.9), chossy move. Excellent summit. Mar 23, 2015