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Routes in Mt. Jefferson

Center Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow
Jefferson Park Glacier 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Mod. Snow
North Milk Creek Glacier 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1-2 M1 Steep Snow PG13
North Ridge Mod. Snow
South Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
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Type: Trad, Snow, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,719 total · 21/month
Shared By: mark kerns on Nov 18, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

approach from the west side off of the PCT. follow the ridge that leads directly to the summit pinnacle. in good conditions this is moderate snow and very good climbing. The route is in the shade all morning.

Protection

For the ridge - pickets, maybe a deadman or screws. crampons and ice axe.
For the pinnacle - runners and a small rack of assorted nuts. keep it light.
mark kerns
denver, co
  Easy 5th Mod. Snow
mark kerns   denver, co
  Easy 5th Mod. Snow
at the summit pinnacle - we traversed to the north around to the east side and were able to scramble up 4th class rock - very loose in places - to the summit. ymmv.
Also - there are many ways to climb the pinnacle depending on the how much adventure your party is looking for. Nov 18, 2007
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
Tierra Infirma-
aesthetic peak, arduous suffering!
2pm start-approached via Pamelia Lk trail head (elev.3,000ft) to Milk Creek to PCT (head south) about a mile to the first major gully. followed poor climbers trail up steep to approx 5,600ft -camped still in trees with about 50% snow coverage at this point. 6am start- low temps only to the 40's caused loose snow conditions- post-holing and kick stepping interspersed with loose scree stumbling. As I live at 7,000ft I expected to find this climb easier but instead it seemed and enormous amount of work. upper slopes involved postholing thigh deep and burring your axe and hand and forearm. 1pm- we debated at the "red saddle" (completely white for us) & decided because of the exposed traverse and poor snow conditions as well as the worsening weather that we should skip the remaining 330ft and descend. glissaded as much as possible, broke camp and back to the car by 8:30pm, Good Beer and Pizza at "sammy's" in Detroit Lake. Jul 2, 2009
Leeroy  
This route is listed as the West Rib in Oregon high and I've never heard any one call it the "center ridge". No pro is needed until you reach the pinnacle. Two tools are nice in a couple of spots lower on the ridge if you're not feeling super solid. Also, it does not take you anywhere near the "red saddle". Not sure how someone could be confused about which ridge they climbed. May 21, 2012
mark kerns
denver, co
  Easy 5th Mod. Snow
mark kerns   denver, co
  Easy 5th Mod. Snow
the old nick dodge book refers to this route as Center Ridge... Mar 17, 2015

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