North Ridge

The North Ridge is perhaps the route of choice for a party that does not want to deal with slog around to the Whitewater Glacier or the complexity of the North Shoulder finish to Jeff Park Glacier. However, this route is one that should be done only when snow covered as otherwise is it a scree slope.

From Jeff Park gain the ridge generally staying the east side of the ridge crest. Once the ridge steepens significantly, begin a leftward traverse under the steep conglomerated headwall. Depending on conditions, it may be possible to climb a steep chute that leads to the ridge crest. If not continue trending left around the ridge crest at which point it will be possible to traverse into the col between the ridge crest and the summit pinnacle.

The North Ridge can be gained from a camp in Jeff Park. One can also gain the ridge from Jeff Park Glacier. However, this variation involves climbing some steep snow and alpine ice. See the Jeff Park Glacier topo photo.

Pickets, a few screws, and perhaps a nut or two. Using two tools is not unreasonable - especially if doing the variation from Jeff Park Glacier.