Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 412 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Nov 7, 2007 with updates from Kris Henderson
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

Fun route. Starts kind of low angle on big holds but turns vertical just past half way through. Just enough good huecos get you almost to the top where you can either go to the right and finish on the anchor of No Name 6b or continue up and slightly left to finish at the correct anchor which is about 6 feet to the right of the anchor of Keep The Jam, Man. Depending on your finish I would put it between 10d and 10b.

Location

Difficult to say, on the main wall its about 4 or 5 routes right of the left-hand side. Look for easy jug climbing that thins out to a vertical much blanker section - with a tree and anchor in the vicinity.

Protection

Three sketchy looking slings then two titanium bolts, one more sling, then the anchor. About 8 draws

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Glen Charnoski
Boulder, CO
Glen Charnoski   Boulder, CO
Im pretty sure this is the route I did just right of Keep The Jam Man. I too rated it 5.10b/c. I saw 1 bolt and 3 slings on this route. Oct 14, 2011
Lindsey Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Lindsey Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
 
A recent guide book has this as the route (6a+) right of Keep the Jam (6a), like Glen says above. There are several sets of sling anchors so close to each other at the top, you could possibly choose either depending on if you top out right or left... I disagree with the mp beta-- I found the route to naturally finish slightly left. My partner tried going right and really struggled. Nov 21, 2014
mc kaiser
Lander, Wy
 
mc kaiser   Lander, Wy
 
There are two threads after you clip the first bolt and they are laughably bad currently (might not hold body weight- totally core shot and shredded). Fortunately, this is over easy terrain. I'm very tall (6' 7"), so getting to a solid stance where I could clip the next Ti bolt was no problem. For someone shorter it may not be so trivial. Sep 20, 2016