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Routes in Commitment Buttress

Coco Puffs Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Commitment T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Commitment Issues S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct Commitment Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Involuntary Commitment S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Legit To Commit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Joel Brown, Dave George and Paul Horton 1970
Page Views: 1,982 total, 16/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Nov 6, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1- Climb left of the main rib to a left facing corner. Either continue up the corner or traverse right and climb the face above to a mahogany tree.
P2- Follow a corner up & right to a ledge with a large tree.
P3- Make an easy traverse left and down 30' to a stance.
P4- Follow corner above to a traverse left across a slab to belay at a bolt.

Descent: Rap or downclimb to the gully descending down from the Triangle wall.

Location

Start at the right edge of the slab near it's lowest point.

Protection

Standard Trad rack.

Photos

Ken H
Granite, UT
  5.6 PG13
Ken H   Granite, UT
  5.6 PG13
The climbing is good and fun but we had to wonder around on the approach and the down climb was a little funky. Great climb if you're training for alpine routes. Below is how we climbed it.

Pitch 1: Start at the toe of the buttress, take some slab to the far left to the corner. Climb the corner to a nice ledge with good small tree. Build a belay or sling the tree. 5.6 110'

Pitch 2: A bit of blocky scramble to the right and then traverse back left to find a lieback crack. (might be able to just climb up and left but a fallen tree was on the slab I didn't want to deal with) Climb the lieback which protects well at the base. When the gear runs out half way up move left above a small tree to a little piece of finger crack. Pop up to a tree. ~100' Sling the tree and back it up with a #2 camalot and down climb to a dirty slaby ledge below a large tree at the base of a large flake/left facing corner. Build a belay with .5, .75, or #1 C4 sized pieces. 5.5 100' up 20' down

Pitch 3: Climb the corner for about 100' then traverse hard left to a ledge in the middle of the slab. 1 good bolt and 1 old 1/4" button head for belay. 5.5 ~140'

Pitch 4: Climb a thin crack to a stance below a nice hand sized lieback crack. Between the cracks is 20' or so and no gear. Climb the unprotected face 5.6 or the tree to the left to gain the crack. Climb the crack but watch for stacked boulders which look ready to fall at the top. Traverse right to a 2 bolt rap station. 5.6 PG 90'

Pitch 5: Climb a insecure section of 5.5 which is filled with veg. Gain some more lieback; spot the bolt anchor about 15' far right of the corner. Run it about 30' on easy 5.4 climbing to the ledge below the slung tree and traverse over to the anchors OR traverse across the 5.6 face to the anchors. There is a small nut placement (fixed at the moment) before the anchors. 2 Bolt rap station. 5.5 PG 80'

We had a 70 m rope and it was easy; I don't know if a 60m would reach but I think so.

Rap to top of 4 80', Rap to nice anchor below 3 ?100'?, Rap to ground ?100'?. Walk down into the tree and reach some talas then traverse striaght west on a nice little trail to the base. Aug 17, 2015
Hello,
does anyone know if there are bolted belay stations? Sep 24, 2014
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
  5.6 R
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
  5.6 R
Your Welcome The traditional slung tree top anchor led to alot of rock fall on the climber/belayer below and if you rapelled from there just pulling the rope could bring some rocks down. I know this was probablly all climbed before but the new bolt lines we added allow you to climb some really fun otherwise unprotected terrain above. We will post some topos and updates in the near future. Sep 25, 2013
To who ever put in the mixed bolt/gear line above the commitment ledge, thanks. This was a nice finish to the top of the buttress. Thanks for the rap anchors as well. Jun 21, 2013
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
  5.6 R
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
  5.6 R
We trundled the big block and a lot of loose rocks at the fist belay it should be safer now. we also cleaned up the rest of the belays as much as we could but there are still some loose rocks. Jul 29, 2012
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
  5.6 R
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
  5.6 R
This climb is 6 pitches if you go all the way to the top.

p5 5.6 from the bolt belay ledge. Climb up and left to a thin crack, then past a bush to a right facing corner at about 90 ft up where the corner becomes a roof to the right is a two bolt anchor.

p6 5.5 climb the right facing corner 5.5 well protected. Be careful of loose rocks below the tree belay. 80ft.

You can acctually rap the route now with a single 70m, or 2 ropes for the rap to the ground. Jul 2, 2012
Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
 
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
 
Pitch one is quality. The corner is thin and continuous. But the exit is guarded with a sketchy loose block that ought to be trundled. The second pitch (that I climbed) had a great lieback. A fun moderate with an alpine taste... Nov 7, 2007