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Routes in Upper Theology Crag

Beggar's Banquet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fade to Black S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Frizzle Fry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Man Knows the Hour S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Titanium Albatross S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trial of Faith TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trouble With Normal, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed (Water Jump Start) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 5.12a S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unnamed 5.9 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman
Page Views: 1,360 total · 10/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Oct 16, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Starts a short scramble up and to the left of "The Trouble With Normal". Juggy and overhanging moves off the ground transition into steep and powerful face climbing above. The second to last bolt is the crux. As of this writing, the crux is a lunge to a small crimp which, judging from the amount of glue still on the rock, used to be a large crimp but broke off, hence the 5.11 c/d rating. I think the route used to be graded 5.11b. Whatever its rating, be prepared to go for it at the end!


Just left of Trial of Faith.


Bring at least eight draws. The anchor has two bolts (one is so-so), and an open-shut.


andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
For those who have climbed this route in the past, I apologize if my new grade of 5.11 c/d seems a bit stiff. Perhaps I am a poor judge of difficulty. If you could care less, then this comment is of no importance, but If you think me a chest-puffer, then I'd welcome a correction. Any attention to Upper Theology Crag is good attention. Whatever your disposition, I don't think you'll be disappointed. Oct 17, 2007
Nick Sullens
Nick Sullens   Yosemite
Definitely hard 11 ish, I would say 11c, that crimp is small! Apr 26, 2010
Richard Shore
Richard Shore  
I don't feel that the move to the small, yet positive crimp is the crux, but the move just past it over the bulge onto the lichenous slab above is. A wild stem far out right with the feet was the ticket for me. Steep, pumpy, and long for SB. 4 stars! Jun 25, 2011

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