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Routes in Upper Theology Crag

Beggar's Banquet S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fade to Black S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Frizzle Fry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Man Knows the Hour S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Titanium Albatross S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trial of Faith TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trouble With Normal, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed (Water Jump Start) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 5.12a S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unnamed 5.9 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman
Page Views: 1,292 total, 10/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Oct 16, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starts a short scramble up and to the left of "The Trouble With Normal". Juggy and overhanging moves off the ground transition into steep and powerful face climbing above. The second to last bolt is the crux. As of this writing, the crux is a lunge to a small crimp which, judging from the amount of glue still on the rock, used to be a large crimp but broke off, hence the 5.11 c/d rating. I think the route used to be graded 5.11b. Whatever its rating, be prepared to go for it at the end!

Location

Just left of Trial of Faith.

Protection

Bring at least eight draws. The anchor has two bolts (one is so-so), and an open-shut.

Photos

Richard Shore
  5.11c
Richard Shore  
  5.11c
Original 1980's 3/8" Star-Dryvin top anchor replaced with beefy 1/2" x 4" Rawls with ASCA double ring hangers 8/27/11. Those bolts were in really bad shape; the thin metal sleeves had basically disintigrated inside the hole. I was glad I brought along a pair of needle-nose pliers to extract all the broken bolt pieces Aug 28, 2011
Richard Shore
  5.11c
Richard Shore  
  5.11c
I don't feel that the move to the small, yet positive crimp is the crux, but the move just past it over the bulge onto the lichenous slab above is. A wild stem far out right with the feet was the ticket for me. Steep, pumpy, and long for SB. 4 stars! Jun 25, 2011
Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
  5.11c
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
  5.11c
Definitely hard 11 ish, I would say 11c, that crimp is small! Apr 26, 2010
Nathan Welton
Estes Park, CO
Nathan Welton   Estes Park, CO
i think it's somewhere in the hard .11 range now, that top part is definitely a trick. Jan 9, 2008
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
For those who have climbed this route in the past, I apologize if my new grade of 5.11 c/d seems a bit stiff. Perhaps I am a poor judge of difficulty. If you could care less, then this comment is of no importance, but If you think me a chest-puffer, then I'd welcome a correction. Any attention to Upper Theology Crag is good attention. Whatever your disposition, I don't think you'll be disappointed. Oct 17, 2007