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Routes in Slab City (Left)

Bottom Feeder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cling Thing S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feetal Rearrangement S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goody Two Shoes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hang Thang S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hoochie Mama S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mantle Marathon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantlepiece S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Marathon Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Peter Principle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pigeon, The Other White Meat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shattered Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Fucking Rad (S.F.R.) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unexpected Difficulties T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whiplash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2007
Page Views: 2,934 total, 24/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Start the climb directly (or by coming in from the right by liebacking up a block) and then climb the vertical zig-zag crack via liebacking, face climbing and even some jamming to a tricky scrunch move (crux) at the last bolt to finish on a ledge with anchors. Note: the use of long draws on bolts 4 and 5 is advised to keep the rope away from the sharp edge of the crack.

The route features moderate, big-hold climbing for most of it's length and despite the somewhat awkward crux at the top makes an excellent warm-up for the more difficult routes nearby. Also, be aware that the "Pigeon Hotel" (located between bolts #5 and #6) is currently open for business - so plan accordingly.

Location

This is a bolted version of the lower portion of Unexpected Difficulties, and is easily identified by the jagged crack system as well as the "cookies + milk" graffiti at the base; just left of this is Peter Principle.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchors
Christopher Gian
California
 
Christopher Gian   California
 
Great route. Your hand jams may reach into inner crimps or jugs. Going higher you can get a leg or shin in. Note that while executing these moves, you might loosen some rock towards belayer.

Also note, that at the crux there's a very chalked up jug that is loose. Dec 24, 2015
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10c
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.10c
A good steep climb with a distinctive crux. The lower section of the climb is pure fun on jugs. The middle section is a little awkward, but the last part is definitely tricky. Sep 29, 2007