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Shattered Dreams
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.9 from 51
votes
Routes in Slab City (Left)
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Bottom Feeder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cling Thing S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Feetal Rearrangement S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Goody Two Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hang Thang S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hoochie Mama S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mantle Marathon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mantlepiece S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Marathon Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pandora’s Box S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Peter Principle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Pigeon, The Other White Meat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pucker Power T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Shattered Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Super Fucking Rad (S.F.R.) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unexpected Difficulties T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Whiplash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01906, -117.4164 |
| FA: | Louie Anderson, 2007 |
| Page Views: | 4,136 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Sep 28, 2007 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Start the climb directly (or by coming in from the right by liebacking up a block) and then climb the vertical zig-zag crack via liebacking, face climbing and even some jamming to a tricky scrunch move (crux) at the last bolt to finish on a ledge with anchors. Note: the use of long draws on bolts 4 and 5 is advised to keep the rope away from the sharp edge of the crack.
The route features moderate, big-hold climbing for most of it's length and despite the somewhat awkward crux at the top makes an excellent warm-up for the more difficult routes nearby. Also, be aware that the "Pigeon Hotel" (located between bolts #5 and #6) is currently open for business - so plan accordingly.
Location
This is a bolted version of the lower portion of Unexpected Difficulties, and is easily identified by the jagged crack system as well as the "cookies + milk" graffiti at the base; just left of this is Peter Principle.
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