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Routes in Nose Rock

About Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aggro Arete S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Anasazi Eyes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Avalon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Avez-Vous Chaud S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castillo S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hook Me Up S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hookin Red Nectar S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mad Boy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monster Mish S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Negra Modelo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Scully Route S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sex is Violence S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shake Dog Shake S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spinal Tap S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Strong Girl S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Strong Sex S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Leo Henson and Karin Olson
Page Views: 1,155 total, 9/month
Shared By: Andrew Ryder on Sep 10, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A reachy start on big holds leads to a tricky crux between the second and third bolts. Above the third bolt, the route follows an easier (but very fun) arĂȘte past two more bolts to the anchors. Cool and thoughtful moves up excellent rock.

Location

Pass under the large roof at the right end of Nose Rock. There are two bolt lines with shared anchors that go just left of the roof (Strong Girl and Sex Is Violence). Walk past these and Spinal Tap is the next line of bolts on the right.

Protection

5 bolts to shuts. First bolt can be clipped from the ground. Please use quickdraws when toproping to reduce wear on the anchors.

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