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Routes in Nose Rock

About Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aggro Arete S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Anasazi Eyes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Avalon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Avez-Vous Chaud S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castillo S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hook Me Up S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hookin Red Nectar S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mad Boy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monster Mish S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Negra Modelo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Scully Route S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sex is Violence S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shake Dog Shake S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spinal Tap S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Strong Girl S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Strong Sex S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 622 total, 5/month
Shared By: Andrew Ryder on Oct 19, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Crank on small holds to a break (crux), then make easier moves on good pockets and jugs to a mantel/beached whale move at the top. The powerful direct start feels out of character with the rest of the route, and can be avoided by starting to the left and traversing out along the break (this drops the overall grade to mid-5.10.)

Location

Right of the big crack/chimney at the right end of Nose Rock, look for two bolt lines left of the roof. Strong Girl is the left route.

Protection

4 bolts to Mussy Hooks shared with Sex Is Violence.

Photos

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Just like sex is violance I believe Diedra Burton put this up both in the early 90's. Oct 28, 2011