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Routes in Middle Ice Caves (CHUD area)

Chud S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crud aka Unknown near Chud S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monster Magnet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Steve Damboise
Page Views: 917 total, 7/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Aug 27, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Monster Magnet's popularity has suffered because most people would rather succeed on CHUD, a soft 13a, than flail on a brutal 12d. Beyond ratings, this route has amazing rock, great movement, and is one of the best bouldery 12+ routes in the canyon. If this thing ever gets bumped to 13a, it will see more ascents.

Short and powerful, Monster Magnet packs the majority of its difficulty into a devious 20 foot V7 boulder problem. Enjoy a small rest, and then navigate through some pumpy slopers, sidepulls and pinches to the top.

Location

Left of CHUD, Monster Magnet is the middle bolt line and starts in a small, left-facing, layback feature.

Protection

Five quickdraws plus 2 for the anchor. Since the anchor consist of a hanger, and an eye bolt, you may want to bring a leaver biner for the hanger so you can lower off 2 bolts. A 50 meter rope will easily get you back to the ground.

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Ben Sachs
  5.13a
Ben Sachs  
  5.13a
Satisfying boulder problem ending at huge jug into some 12- climbing. Great stone throughout. Not sure how this was ever 12d?(!) At least V7 boulder problem. 13a in newest guide. I added a legit anchor with chains/biners as of Sept. 2015. Sep 26, 2015