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Routes in Friction Slab

Split Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turner Prize Tower, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Unnamed wide start right of split pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Waltz T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Y-Crack Simulator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ed Webster, Patrick Griffin, and Udom Likhitwonnawut. May 1984
Page Views: 2,409 total, 19/month
Shared By: Scott Hansen on Aug 15, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Sandstone slab with two bolts on route to an I-bolt anchor. The crux is after the first bolt. A nice climb for those in your party not into the typical offerings of Indian Creek or those who's hands need some rest.

Location

Left most route on the Friction Slab.

Protection

Coupla draws for the two bolts and something for the anchor.

Photos

CanDillo
The Great State -Colorado
CanDillo   The Great State -Colorado
IMO This route is not worth doing. As of the date mentioned 4/30/09 there is only 2 bolt in 70 feet to the anchor. Probably won't ground out but there is a chance without an attentive belay on the runouts. Holds are zero and 99% of this wall is covered in lichen due to infrequent travel making most feet pretty polished. This is all capped with a manky 3 pin anchor and shredding equalized webbing to the rap-ring. One route for the boldly stupid, such as my self ,trying to get in what I thought would be a nice early morning warm up before hitting the splitters in the canyon. It's Idian Creek, you came here for SPLITTERS!!! Don't do this route unless you own an electric toothbrush or have done enough methamphetamine to stay focused scrubbing holds. Oct 28, 2009
I wonder if you were on White Waltz, a route I think of Bill Feiges.

That was put up around 1979 and the route immediately to its left is Laurel, the 2 pitch 5.11 of Hunt and Bill Robins. Sundance is the 3rd route to the right of Laurel. I thought that Hunt's first name was Peter not Paul?

I thought that Sundance was put up in May by Webster and Orion's Bow in October of the same year, '84. May 3, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Your thinking of Orion's Bow regarding the first ascent party. This route is older than that. I remember doing a beer soaked group ascent on a CC block break in 81 or so. I seem to remember either Steve Cheney or Earl Wiggins put it in. The harder one to the left was put up by Paul Hunt. It's comes in at a scary 5.11. Apr 30, 2009
FA: Ed Webster, Patrick Griffin, and Udom Likhitwonnawut, May, 1984.

Originally rated 5.6.
Also, isn't this route the rightmost route on the wall and not the left. Apr 30, 2009
Mike Slavens
Houston, TX
Mike Slavens   Houston, TX
Holds may have washed off, climb is now harder than 5.7. Anchor slings need to be replaced. Not worth doing. Apr 30, 2009
I am so there! Aug 17, 2007