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Arrow Heads and Pitons
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
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Routes in The Chimney
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Arrow Heads and Pitons T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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North Face Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Rocky Raccoon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Smoke on the Horizon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 35.21293, -106.45393 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,093 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Steven VanSickle on Jul 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: SANDIA CREST CLOSURE ALERT - Beginning APRIL 30, 2026, 140 acres at the top of the Sandia Mountains is under a closure order.
Details
Beginning APRIL 30, 2026, 140 acres at the top of the Sandia Mountains will be under a closure order so the Forest Service can complete two different projects. The first project is an extensive "fuel reduction project" and the second is the demolition/remodeling of the whole upper parking lot and crest house. The Crest Road and all parking areas above the 10k parking lot will be closed in addition to the 140 acres of forest that will be under going the fuel reduction work. The closure will be enforced from April 30, 2026, at 6 a.m. through January 15, 2027, at 6 a.m., unless rescinded. You can find the official area closure order 03-03-05-26-02 on the forest website, where it describes the parking areas and trails that the agency will close at: fs.usda.gov/r03/cibola/alerts. For more information visit fs.usda.gov/r03/cibola/news… or contact the Sandia Ranger District Office at 505-281-3304.
Description
The Crux is at the top, awkward chimney out a small roof. Loose rock and lots of lichen. But seeing 5 or 6 SUPER classic pitons make climbing it and seeing them great.
Location
Starts on the north side under very old green webbing. Go right out under small roof and follow really old pitons. Trend left and summit from the east side.
Protection
Light trad rack,up to #2 Camelot, many runners.
RAPPEL BETA
Two rappels off a bolted anchor with a 60m rope gets you to the ground. The rap anchor is at the north edge of the very top part of the summit. The 2nd rappel anchor is directly below that top anchor about 100ft down. A single 60m rope is adequate for both raps with a spare meter or two of rope on the first rap. Knot the ends.
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