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Routes in Deseret Peak

Tissue Of Invention, NE Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: James Garrett, solo, July 2007
Page Views: 1,249 total, 10/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 10, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Since skiing the great couloir of the NE Face years ago with the late great Dave Anderson, I wondered why no climbing had been done on this north face. He and I scoped the line then.

I went with my wife Franziska in June of 2007 to attempt the route. It became obvious to us why this face had been ignored until now. We climbed some pitches and did some cleaning, but it was very unstable and due to the dangerous nature, we retreated. I decided soloing the route would be much safer, albeit, much more work. Besides, she had had enough....of the near misses! I really enjoyed the position, the alpine nature, and being probably the first person climbing such an outrageous "local" mountain face. It didn't feel all that loose when I was up there, but it probably is....so climb cautiously and safeguard your belayer. This face is quite broad and wide. Many alpine ice/mixed routes await the alpinist visiting here in the colder months. So get after it!

Also, as I was alone and often using aid, many of the pitch grades noted below are estimates. My apologies for inexact grades.
Pitch #1: From the tree (best approached from the couloir on the left), climb past two bolts to a roof past two more bolts. trend right to another bolt to a fixed belay (one bolt and fixed nuts) at a lip. 40m 5.8(?).
Pitch #2: Loose, low angle scree to a fixed anchor (fixed nut and bolt). 20m, 5.3.
Pitch #3: A steep and wild pitch on mostly good rock. Follow 8-9 fixed pitons and bolts trending right to another good ledge and two-bolt belay. 40m, 5.9+.
Pitch #4: Climb out right up a ramp (may encounter a fixed nut out further right, but this may be more difficult) to a short scree slope to a fixed belay (fixed nut and bolt). 20m, 5.7.
Pitch #5: Climb straight up (this belay is very protected) passing a bolt to a two bolt belay ledge. This is low angle and loose. 4th class, 60m.
Pitch #6: One more steeper 4th class step and scramble up to the top and another fixed belay with one piton and one bolt. 4th class, 20m.

Location

The route goes up the prominent spur just to the right (west) of the great couloir. 2-3 hours approach time. A solitary ruggedly stout bristlecone pine marks the beginning of the route. From the tree, start climbing rock about 10m up and right. Look for a bolt that ascends weaknesses. The line ascends pretty much straight up to the ridgeline. Once you find the beginning of the route near the tree, it would be difficult to go off route.
Descent is best walking down the fine trail and picking up any left gear at the saddle at the top of the couloir along the way. About 2 hours descent time.

Protection

About 20 bolts and pitons were placed and fixed during the first ascent. A small rack including microcams should suffice to supplement the fixed protection.

Photos

Tea,
Thanks. I'd be really interested to know where and any other info you may have or get on OTHER routes on Deseret....Where did you see the bolts, for example? Did they appear to be very old? What kind of bolts were they? I looked everywhere, it seemed. In the couloir area? What a beautiful place, eh? Aug 11, 2007
Tea
Tea  
I have also spotted bolts and anchors on the face prior to Jimmy's line this summer.

Anyone have any info? Congrats on the Trifecta JG! Aug 8, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Wow, I've looked at that face and wondered if it'd be safer in winter...

Also had heard the rumor that it had been climbed years ago. RW? Jul 11, 2007