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Routes in The Stumbling Block

Battle's End S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Decoletage S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lips Against the Steel T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Naked Kill T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Razor Blade Titillation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sabaki T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 1 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Bret Ruckman, Jack Roberts, 1990
Page Views: 3,899 total, 31/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jul 5, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2016 Raptor Closures Details
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Description

The Naked Kill is a testpiece, hard crack splitting a green lichen face just right of the central chimney and left of Razor Blade Titillation. Though only about 50 feet to the ledge, it is on you the whole way. Slightly overhanging and highly technical flared jamming, strenuous finger locks, difficult pro placements -- best describe this proud line.

The crack was first freed by Bret Ruckman and Jack Roberts in 1990 at .12b, and apparently has been neglected until my repeat ascent. It has gotten much harder, after I removed a loose violin-case-sized chockstone from midway up the routeÂ…now necessitating several, insecure, long reaches to flared jams through this new crux.

The Kill is in your face the moment you step off the ground. After a bouldery start off of slopers, commit to 12b moves, followed by a 12c/d crux. Careful pro placements in the initial cruxes will keep you from decking -- the base is a bad landing, loose hillside. Higher up, it eases off for one more sting-in-the-tail move, 11b, to better holds and the ledge. Bail off at the bolt, or continue past, up a 5.9 move to easy slabs and the anchors of Razor Blade. This is the hardest trad route in the canyon.

Protection

TCUs, nuts, and a few hand-sized pieces. Doubled up RPs may protect the entry moves. Bring an attentive belayer.
CPino
Denver, CO
CPino   Denver, CO
Gear spoiler alert - a blue Mastercam with the top lobe on the right side of a small inset can be placed from the ground by someone of average-tall height. This piece is pretty good if placed carefully and will protect the opening moves. It did hold my whip when it was about knee-calf level. You don't want to blow it clipping the next piece, but at that point you've completed the first set of hard moves, so I think this cam keeps the route safe. Jan 26, 2016
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.12d R
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.12d R
Ha, perfect indeed...

(fine handy work up there). Apr 22, 2014
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Did the nut seem like it was about the perfect length to equalize with the new bolt? ;) Apr 21, 2014
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.12d R
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.12d R
^^^ Agreed. It climbs like a mix between finger crack and a sport climb.

As a note on gear, there are good pieces, it just helps to know where they are and where to just climb. Going ground up on this would be pretty bad ass. Excellent pro before the crux helps a lot (currently fixed nut here, sorry). I also added a nut hanger to the old bolt at the anchor to connect it with the new 1/2" bolt with locker to add some redundancy. Apr 19, 2014
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12d R
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12d R
This route is sick!!! Jul 9, 2007