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5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 21
votes
Routes in Lost Piton Rock
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Fragile Blasphemer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mercury Landing S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rebel Rebel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spiders from Mars S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Welcome to Planet M.F. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
| FA: | Marty Lewis & Kevin Calder, August 2003 |
| Page Views: | 706 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jul 3, 2007 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Climb the dike past some balancy sections to it's end, continue up a section of tricky face (crux) and finish in a 20' handcrack; lower-off from anchors.
Almost a sport route, but you'll most likely want a piece or two for the crack finish.
Almost a sport route, but you'll most likely want a piece or two for the crack finish.
Location
Located on the left side of the wall just left of Mercury Landing and easily identified as a right-slanting dike system.
I think the 4 stars given in the guide are unwarranted... no question it is really fun but not a 4-star classic. Nov 14, 2015
Otherwise, nice variety with the dike, the face crux, and the hand crack (try protecting with cams 1 - 2.5 inch).
Nice bonus of leading this route is the ability to set Top-Ropes on the interesting and varied route to its left (Fragile Blasphemer), and the thoughtful face-climbing route (Mercury Landing) directly underneath the two-bolts-with-mussy-hooks top anchor. Jul 25, 2017
Mountain View, CA
Lee Vining, CA