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Routes in Lost Piton Rock

Fragile Blasphemer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mercury Landing S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rebel Rebel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spiders from Mars S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Planet M.F. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Marty Lewis & Kevin Calder, August 2003
Page Views: 653 total, 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the dike past some balancy sections to it's end, continue up a section of tricky face (crux) and finish in a 20' handcrack; lower-off from anchors.

Almost a sport route, but you'll most likely want a piece or two for the crack finish.

Location

Located on the left side of the wall just left of Mercury Landing and easily identified as a right-slanting dike system.

Protection

8 bolts, gear to 2.5", bolted anchors

Photos

Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
 
Good line for sure. Nov 20, 2017
Alistair Veitch
Mountain View, CA
  5.10a
Alistair Veitch   Mountain View, CA
  5.10a
Thought this was the best route on the wall: dike, face, crack, up the most obvious line. Jul 26, 2017
kenr
 
kenr  
 
I'd say the key deficit in quality is that the lower half in the dike is so much easier than the crux -- but very fun with lots of positive holds which are not sharp.
Otherwise, nice variety with the dike, the face crux, and the hand crack (try protecting with cams 1 - 2.5 inch).

Nice bonus of leading this route is the ability to set Top-Ropes on the interesting and varied route to its left (Fragile Blasphemer), and the thoughtful face-climbing route (Mercury Landing) directly underneath the two-bolts-with-mussy-hooks top anchor. Jul 25, 2017
J. Hickok
  5.10a
J. Hickok  
  5.10a
Little crunchy still... and I imagine it's seen a lot of ascents.

I think the 4 stars given in the guide are unwarranted... no question it is really fun but not a 4-star classic. Nov 14, 2015