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Routes in Lost Piton Rock

Fragile Blasphemer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mercury Landing S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rebel Rebel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spiders from Mars S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Planet M.F. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Marty Lewis & Kevin Calder, August 2003
Page Views: 706 total · 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Climb the dike past some balancy sections to it's end, continue up a section of tricky face (crux) and finish in a 20' handcrack; lower-off from anchors.

Almost a sport route, but you'll most likely want a piece or two for the crack finish.


Located on the left side of the wall just left of Mercury Landing and easily identified as a right-slanting dike system.


8 bolts, gear to 2.5", bolted anchors


J. Hickok
J. Hickok  
Little crunchy still... and I imagine it's seen a lot of ascents.

I think the 4 stars given in the guide are unwarranted... no question it is really fun but not a 4-star classic. Nov 14, 2015
I'd say the key deficit in quality is that the lower half in the dike is so much easier than the crux -- but very fun with lots of positive holds which are not sharp.
Otherwise, nice variety with the dike, the face crux, and the hand crack (try protecting with cams 1 - 2.5 inch).

Nice bonus of leading this route is the ability to set Top-Ropes on the interesting and varied route to its left (Fragile Blasphemer), and the thoughtful face-climbing route (Mercury Landing) directly underneath the two-bolts-with-mussy-hooks top anchor. Jul 25, 2017
Alistair Veitch
Mountain View, CA
Alistair Veitch   Mountain View, CA
Thought this was the best route on the wall: dike, face, crack, up the most obvious line. Jul 26, 2017
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
Good line for sure. Nov 20, 2017

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