Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Marty Lewis & Kevin Calder, August 2003
Page Views: 718 total · 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Climb the dike past some balancy sections to it's end, continue up a section of tricky face (crux) and finish in a 20' handcrack; lower-off from anchors.

Almost a sport route, but you'll most likely want a piece or two for the crack finish.

Location

Located on the left side of the wall just left of Mercury Landing and easily identified as a right-slanting dike system.

Protection

8 bolts, gear to 2.5", bolted anchors

Photos

J. Hickok
Salida, CO
  5.10a
J. Hickok   Salida, CO
  5.10a
Little crunchy still... and I imagine it's seen a lot of ascents.

I think the 4 stars given in the guide are unwarranted... no question it is really fun but not a 4-star classic. Nov 14, 2015
kenr
 
kenr  
 
I'd say the key deficit in quality is that the lower half in the dike is so much easier than the crux -- but very fun with lots of positive holds which are not sharp.
Otherwise, nice variety with the dike, the face crux, and the hand crack (try protecting with cams 1 - 2.5 inch).

Nice bonus of leading this route is the ability to set Top-Ropes on the interesting and varied route to its left (Fragile Blasphemer), and the thoughtful face-climbing route (Mercury Landing) directly underneath the two-bolts-with-mussy-hooks top anchor. Jul 25, 2017
Alistair Veitch
Mountain View, CA
  5.10a
Alistair Veitch   Mountain View, CA
  5.10a
Thought this was the best route on the wall: dike, face, crack, up the most obvious line. Jul 26, 2017
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
 
Good line for sure. Nov 20, 2017