Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 105 total · 3/month
Shared By: BAd on Mar 28, 2016 with updates from kenr
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The crux comes high on the route--if you dare to go that far. Crunchy choss flakes and grit mark most of the key moves on this pile of junk. In no way does this deserve any stars.

Location

Start up "Welcome to Plant M'F'ers" and cut left at the 4th bolt. You'll see the rotten rock from the first moves--all the evidence you need to stay away.

Protection

Sport bolted lower down, trad gear above (a couple of cams up to 3" should do) Safe. Hideous.

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kenr
  5.10a
kenr  
  5.10a
Interesting and fun climbing through four completely different rock situations.
. . (the most recent print guidebook gives it 3 quality stars).

While the "fragile" rock is a deterrent to Leading this route, after leading the adjacent route "Welcome to Planet M F", it is straightforward to set up a Top Rope on the two-bolts-with-links top anchor of this route by traversing left on a sloping ledge from the two-bolts-with-mussy-hooks top anchor of "Welcome to Planet".

If belaying from the bottom (as usual for Top-Roping), the belayer and all other persons can stand far off to one side to avoid getting hit by any rocks or pieces that might break off or fall.

Then this route can be enjoyed for its interesting + varied climbing sections:
1. Fun moves up dike with positive but not sharp holds.
2. Fun horizontal traverse left.
3. Thoughtful face moves (crux).
4. Hand crack to top anchor.

I don't think it's a classic route yet, until someone puts in the effort to clean the breakable rock, which anyway will likely improve by more parties (carefully) climbing it.
. . Nevertheless I'm giving it 4 stars already, to counteract the low rating given by someone else, in hope that more climbers will not be deterred from enjoying it (carefully) on Top-Rope. Jul 25, 2017
Alistair Veitch
Mountain View, CA
  5.10b
Alistair Veitch   Mountain View, CA
  5.10b
Rock quality makes this the worst climb on the cliff. Likely would clean up a bit with more ascents. Climbing itself is fine. Jul 26, 2017
BAd
  5.10b
BAd  
  5.10b
Hey, Ken: Top roping would be okay, but how bad does the rock have to be? Four stars? Huh? Nice spin "fragile" for choss! :}

BAd Jul 26, 2017