Fragile Blasphemer
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 89 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | BAd on Mar 28, 2016 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
The crux comes high on the route--if you dare to go that far. Crunchy choss flakes and grit mark most of the key moves on this pile of junk. In no way does this deserve any stars.
Photos
- No Photos -
. . (the most recent print guidebook gives it 3 quality stars).
While the "fragile" rock is a deterrent to Leading this route, after leading the adjacent route "Welcome to Planet M F", it is straightforward to set up a Top Rope on the two-bolts-with-links top anchor of this route by traversing left on a sloping ledge from the two-bolts-with-mussy-hooks top anchor of "Welcome to Planet".
If belaying from the bottom (as usual for Top-Roping), the belayer and all other persons can stand far off to one side to avoid getting hit by any rocks or pieces that might break off or fall.
Then this route can be enjoyed for its interesting + varied climbing sections:
1. Fun moves up dike with positive but not sharp holds.
2. Fun horizontal traverse left.
3. Thoughtful face moves (crux).
4. Hand crack to top anchor.
I don't think it's a classic route yet, until someone puts in the effort to clean the breakable rock, which anyway will likely improve by more parties (carefully) climbing it.
. . Nevertheless I'm giving it 4 stars already, to counteract the low rating given by someone else, in hope that more climbers will not be deterred from enjoying it (carefully) on Top-Rope. Jul 25, 2017
Mountain View, CA
BAd Jul 26, 2017