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Routes in Lost Piton Rock

Fragile Blasphemer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mercury Landing S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rebel Rebel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spiders from Mars S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Planet M.F. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Neil Hightower & Eric Sorenson, 2001
Page Views: 660 total, 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Fun, easy climbing up plates and jugs lead to a roof (crux) which is powered over on good holds to reach anchors a bit higher. Good moves and great scenery make this an area classic, but minus one star for the poor bolting just before the crux.

The fixed bashie mentioned in the guide is gone (but not needed), and while the route is fairly well-protected the bolting on this is a little odd - a fall just below the roof would not be a good idea.

Location

This is the right-most route on the wall and lies just to the right of Rebel Rebel, a shorter bolted face.

Protection

9 bolts, bolted anchors

Photos

kenr
  5.10c
kenr  
  5.10c
The crux move at the roof is rather height+reach dependent.

The lower half is much easier (easier than the Rebel Rebel to its left) - but rather fun. So the quality of this route is reduced by being less sustained. But the upper crux sequence is rather good, so ... Jul 25, 2017
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.10b PG13
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.10b PG13
Good route, but the bolting is a little spooky on this one. Cruiser up the first 5 bolts to a rest ledge where you clip the 6th bolt. Then it is about 10 feet of harder climbing up steeper rock to the next bolt below the roof. If you fell before clipping that bolt, you risk decking on the ledge below. Just make sure you're solid and don't blow it. Apr 26, 2017
BAd
 
BAd  
 
Great route. The bolting seemed okay to me, although it was strenuous clipping the bolt at the roof. The key is to get that big jug with the right hand; then you can hang and make the clip with the left. Pumpy but logical. Super fun, but I did manage to somehow tweak a finger on it, dammit! Mar 25, 2016
J. Hickok  
 
Very good climbing with crux bolt that many will want to be able to clip more easily before pulling the roof. As it stands, shorter folks may want to pull the crux moves and then make a strenuous clip from a jug. Nov 14, 2015
Ryan Huetter
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ryan Huetter   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Bolting on this route is just fine, you wouldn't want to stop and clip from the crux, and it's only like 5 ft. between the clips. Apr 17, 2012