Avg: 3.6 from 69 votes
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||FA: Mark Powell, Wally Reed, 8/1957 FFA: Mort Hempel, Irene Ortenberger, Steve Roper, 1960|
|Page Views:||16,167 total · 105/month|
|Shared By:||Sergio P on Jun 26, 2007|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
P1: Up the slabs (5.6R) to a crack. Take the crack to tree with slings. 160
P2: Go up and right into the corner (5.5) and belay about 50 below slings that are hanging high up in the corner. These slings are off route. 100
P3: Probably the crux of the route (5.7 sandbag). Again, do not go to the slings in the corner as they are not part of this route. Continue up the corner a little ways until you see a ledge that goes right and around the dihedral. There is a large hole with an undercling in it. The problem to figure out is how to get your foot in the hole while using the undercling that will be at your feet. There is pro before the move that you need to add a sling to in order to avoid rope drag. Consequently, if you fall you will likely hit the slabs below. All the moves are there once you commit to it. Continue traversing the face (stopping to admire Half Dome) until you reach a shallow crack. Head up the crack to a bush and set up a belay. 160
P4: Up the crack (5.7) with a little bit of face climbing (5.6) near the top. Belay below the chimney at a ledge. 165
P5: Maybe the best pitch on the route. Up the chimney (5.7) with right side in so that you can use holds on the outside of the chimney to help you advance. When the chimney pinches down head out and then up an amazing perfect low angle splitter hand crack (5.6) in a right facing dihedral. At the top you will encounter some bushes. Break left and set up a belay, again at the bottom of the dihedral. 160
P6. A little bit of chimney then up and right into the corner with the splitter 1 crack (5.7). Layback this low angle crack until youre almost out of rope and set up a hanging belay. 190. You could also stop lower at a better belay stance. However this will likely add another pitch to the climb.
P7. Continue up a bit more of the layback. Two options now exist. Option A (5.9R): Go up the crack until it ends, place a few piece of pro (small cam and med nut) then run it out up progressively easier slab climbing. The harder moves are with in 10 of the pro. Option B (5.7): go right along a small roof until it ends then go up. I did not do this option, but it probably the original line. Either way head up the summit slabs as far as you can until you find a suitable belay. 100
North Dome Gully Descent: Walk north along the top of the dome looking for a trail that eventually heads west. Follow this trail down hill heading slightly away from the dome. If you lose the trail (which I found likely) you will have serious bush whacking good times. Eventually break east crossing the slabs that were seen during the approach. Continue down the slabs until you reach the trail on top of Royal Arches. Follow this trail east going up and over Washingtons Column. At one point you will have an easy class 2 descent on a sandy 2 foot ledge with a significant drop to the right. Soon after, the trail seems to dead end. If youve reached this point, back track a little. Go up hill a bit and cross a steep slope. Continue east for another half mile to a mile. Looking to the right you will eventually see the decent through the sandy boulder field. Follow this down to the valley floor. One of the major problems I found with this decent are the numerous trails that begin and end. From the top of North Dome to the Valley floor is likely 4 hours for someone who has not done the decent before. Here are a few tips to help you through this. First, keep in mind that there are no rappels necessary, so if you are thinking about setting one up just keep on going. Secondly, if you go to the east side of Glacier Point Apron (near Grack) and look across you should see the decent. This will help you understand how far from Washingtons Column the gully is. Lastly, doing this in the dark in for the first time could have some serious negative side effects. I saw several bivy sites on top of Washingtons Column that are likely from climbers who have decided to wait until morning before heading down. If in doubt, pack a space blanket,lighter to start a fire and hunker down.