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Routes in North Dome

Crest Jewel (and Crest Jewel Direct) T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
South Face Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA: Mark Powell, Wally Reed, 8/1957 FFA: Mort Hempel, Irene Ortenberger, Steve Roper, 1960
Page Views: 11,447 total, 90/month
Shared By: Sergio P on Jun 26, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This route is surprisingly good. Reid’s book only gives it one star, but most people who have climbed it consider a hidden gem. You’ll encounter solid rock decorated with slabs, face, cracks, corners, chimneys, no fixed gear, exposure and amazing views of Half Dome the entire way. Although rated 5.7 there are some thought proving sections. Personally, I felt that the 5.7 rating was a sandbag and you could easily argue that some sections are closer to 5.9. Climb it for yourself and decide. Linking this with Royal Arches will give you 23 pitches of trad climbing in one day. It is hard to beat that.

P1: Up the slabs (5.6R) to a crack. Take the crack to tree with slings. 160’

P2: Go up and right into the corner (5.5) and belay about 50’ below slings that are hanging high up in the corner. These slings are off route. 100’

P3: Probably the crux of the route (5.7 sandbag). Again, do not go to the slings in the corner as they are not part of this route. Continue up the corner a little ways until you see a ledge that goes right and around the dihedral. There is a large hole with an undercling in it. The problem to figure out is how to get your foot in the hole while using the undercling that will be at your feet. There is pro before the move that you need to add a sling to in order to avoid rope drag. Consequently, if you fall you will likely hit the slabs below. All the moves are there once you commit to it. Continue traversing the face (stopping to admire Half Dome) until you reach a shallow crack. Head up the crack to a bush and set up a belay. 160’

P4: Up the crack (5.7) with a little bit of face climbing (5.6) near the top. Belay below the chimney at a ledge. 165’

P5: Maybe the best pitch on the route. Up the chimney (5.7) with right side in so that you can use holds on the outside of the chimney to help you advance. When the chimney pinches down head out and then up an amazing perfect low angle splitter hand crack (5.6) in a right facing dihedral. At the top you will encounter some bushes. Break left and set up a belay, again at the bottom of the dihedral. 160’

P6. A little bit of chimney then up and right into the corner with the splitter 1” crack (5.7). Layback this low angle crack until you’re almost out of rope and set up a hanging belay. 190’. You could also stop lower at a better belay stance. However this will likely add another pitch to the climb.

P7. Continue up a bit more of the layback. Two options now exist. Option A (5.9R): Go up the crack until it ends, place a few piece of pro (small cam and med nut) then run it out up progressively easier slab climbing. The harder moves are with in 10’ of the pro. Option B (5.7): go right along a small roof until it ends then go up. I did not do this option, but it probably the original line. Either way head up the summit slabs as far as you can until you find a suitable belay. 100’

North Dome Gully Descent: Walk north along the top of the dome looking for a trail that eventually heads west. Follow this trail down hill heading slightly away from the dome. If you lose the trail (which I found likely) you will have serious bush whacking good times. Eventually break east crossing the slabs that were seen during the approach. Continue down the slabs until you reach the trail on top of Royal Arches. Follow this trail east going up and over Washington’s Column. At one point you will have an easy class 2 descent on a sandy 2 foot ledge with a significant drop to the right. Soon after, the trail seems to dead end. If you’ve reached this point, back track a little. Go up hill a bit and cross a steep slope. Continue east for another half mile to a mile. Looking to the right you will eventually see the decent through the sandy boulder field. Follow this down to the valley floor. One of the major problems I found with this decent are the numerous trails that begin and end. From the top of North Dome to the Valley floor is likely 4 hours for someone who has not done the decent before. Here are a few tips to help you through this. First, keep in mind that there are no rappels necessary, so if you are thinking about setting one up just keep on going. Secondly, if you go to the east side of Glacier Point Apron (near Grack) and look across you should see the decent. This will help you understand how far from Washington’s Column the gully is. Lastly, doing this in the dark in for the first time could have some serious negative side effects. I saw several bivy sites on top of Washington’s Column that are likely from climbers who have decided to wait until morning before heading down. If in doubt, pack a space blanket,lighter to start a fire and hunker down.

Location

Approach: see approach options under North Dome. However, note that this route begins on a ledge that splits the lower quarter of the dome. This is higher up and west of the start of Crest Jewell. You can see the entire route when walking up to dome. Look for the long left facing dihedral with a long right facing dihedral on top of it. You will not have to pass the start of the climb on the decent (if descending the north dome gully) so bring everything with you.

Protection

Standard Yosemite rack up to a #3 Camalot (#4 friend is optional). You may want doubles from #.5 Camalot to #2 Camalot. About 6 runners and several quick draws. This route is in the sun most of the day so bring a good amount of water (make sure to have some for the long decent). If you are linking this with Royal Arches there is spring on top of that route to refill from.
Nick Tripp
  5.8 PG13
Nick Tripp  
  5.8 PG13
This climb was so good I still get all tingly thinking about it! My partner and I thought the crux of the route was the chimney on P5.

We did this climb in a day to/from Tioga road about 5miles away. While hiking on our way out, we were approached by a little girl of about 9 years, who asked if we wanted to share some wine! Our surprise turned into gratitude when we discovered that she was asking on behalf of her father; they were extremely nice campers who just happened to be backpacking with a bit too much weight. We were exhausted, dehydrated, and had 5miles left to hike, but politely accepted a cup of wine between the two of us. We had a fantastic conversation with them (turned out the father was a climber) and went on our way with a tad more bounce to our step. Encounters like these rekindles my love for the adventure of meeting strangers, and encourages me to pay it forward. Sep 19, 2017
Cameron Saul
San Francisco
Cameron Saul   San Francisco
Hard to believe this route used to be rated 5.7. The third pitch move the comments above mention is stout with a bad fall if you blow it. I think there is a lot of 5.8 on this climb.

SPOILER BETA: For those considering bailing, If you're gripped on the pitch 3 move, before committing to the undercling/dish, I was able to plug a #3 c4 about 3ft above and slightly climber's right of the dish by getting up on my tip-toes. I placed it blind and clipped it, made the move, and it turned out to be good enough. Jul 4, 2017
Kirk hansen
Lakewood, CO
Kirk hansen   Lakewood, CO
"P3: Probably the crux of the route (5.7 sandbag). Again, do not go to the slings in the corner as they are not part of this route.. ...Consequently, if you fall you will likely hit the slabs below. All the moves are there once you commit to it.."

This route/move haunts me!


- Group ahead of us bailed on this pitch - approached from highway 120.

- my partner and I bailed at this move - approached from highway 120. I really was tempted to do this R rated move.. the alternative was absolutely horrible (going up the manzanita gully) and I knew it when contemplating the bail. I had a good stopper at my feet (left by last party) but this wouldn't keep you from hitting the slab once you commit to the move. I though about the #3 Camalot placement mentioned by Tom but was sure that you would still deck on the slab below based on the distance up the crack. As far as an R rating goes, this isn't that bad but I estimate a 7-8 foot fall to the slab below (from the step across or mantel) and initiating the move felt very awkward with uncertain holds above - I guess something on the route could have changed. More likely I have gone soft with fatherhood.

However, up to this pitch was a cakewalk and I have never bailed off a 5.8 or 5.9 in the valley, JTree, Eldo, RMNP,... in 15 years of climbing.

This route is going to see a lot more traffic with the release of the Barth et al. yosemite Free Climbs guide book and I recommend those considering to decide if they are willing to climb an R rated pitch before making the long trek out/up to this dome. bailing up the gulley is heinous!

- Group after us bailed - they were worked from doing Royal Arches and I am not sure if they bailed b/c of this move.

0/3 Oct 18, 2016
jplaut  
BEWARE OF ANTS!! I linked the first 2 pitches and all 3 trees on the pitch were swarming with red ants. I got bitten all over my arms and legs and ended up bailing. I'd suggest not belaying at the trees. Either save pro and climb above the last tree or set up a hanging belay in the crack before the 2nd tree. Either way, you'll probably get some bites, but hopefully you'll anger them less than I did (who knew the smell of ant pheromones could be so potent??).

Also, the Supertopo mentions a 5.6 hands section before the 2nd pitch anchor. I didn't find anything there that could be considered hands. For me, it was a 2-inch deep insecure finger crack with wet munge in the back. Maybe I was one of the first people on the route this season so the crack was filled with residual dirt (or off route), but in any case, the insecure and slippery liebacking definitely felt harder than 5.6 to me.

So yea, other than the ants and the dirty final crack, the first pitch was nice. Can't say anything about the rest of the route, though. Will have to come back and send it during non-ant-season. Apr 16, 2013
paulmadry  
 
that overlap on P3 is 5.7? Oct 9, 2012
Yosemitesam  
 
I found this route to be pretty stout for the grade. Tons of fun don't get me wrong, but maybe a little much for a leader with a 5.8 limit. I managed the tricky 3rd pitch move by starting on my left knee, then working to my right knee while utilizing the undercling. Painful, definitely not graceful, but it felt secure enough that way. If I ever went back I would do the step across. I thought the runout on pitch 4 felt pretty tame compared to the first pitch run. Liebacks forever and ever and ever...You better love liebacks if you wanna do this route. The 5.8 crux lieback pales in comparison to the 3rd pitch move. Last pitch felt harder than 5.6 to me, but only for a move or two. Supertaco users beware!!!!! May 12, 2012
Colin Schour
Big Bear Lake, CA
 
Colin Schour   Big Bear Lake, CA
 
My god this was fantastic. Either bring doubles in the .5-1.5 range or be prepared to run it out on the liebacking sections. Apr 30, 2012
FA: Mark Powell, Wally Reed, 8/1957
FFA: Mort Hempel, Irene Ortenberger, Steve Roper, 1960 Mar 7, 2012
John Ely
DC
  5.8
John Ely   DC
  5.8
I had a great time on this route (sept 09). There are a couple of totally smushed old stoppers on pitch 4, which makes me wonder if someone took a ripper or two on the 5.5 friction? Strongly recommend doing this one. Its worth the hike. The views of Half Dome and the valley are stunning. The beta above seems just about right, though we had 70m twins and were able to run pitches together. Oct 8, 2009
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
The first two pitches are non-descript, but OK. The rest of the route is great!

Tried to undercling p3 and backed off. Dave went up and stepped across - definitely the way to go. Feb 28, 2008
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
I found that the key to the step-across on Pitch 3 is to AVOID the undercling in the hole. It is very awkward to stand up under the bulge using this undercling and the fall potential is bad. Instead, climb up a bit higher to the left of the ledge and place an obvious #3 Camalot, then step across to the ledge with a right foot in the area where the hole is. It's balancy, but far less awkward and with much better pro.

Also, on the last pitch, I wasn't able to find any 5.5 slab climbing, even after traversing right under the roof. Still felt like 5.9 where I went up. Oct 16, 2007