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Routes in Sales Pitch Area

Don't Judge a Book by its Cover T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Market Forecast T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pokey's Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sales Pitch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bret & Stuart Ruckman, Libby Ellis 1990
Page Views: 157 total, 1/month
Shared By: Cameron Charles on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun route, the only drawback is the rusty old bolts. Climb up the face past 4 bolts, then into some underclings (bring some small TCUs to use here, I used a green alien) and on to the anchor.

The first and fourth bolts are quarter inch but decent looking, but the middle two bolts look really sketchy: homemade-looking hangers and super rusty. Also, the anchor only has one bolt but it can be backed up by a really good red camalot placement.

This felt easier than the guidebook rating of 5.10d to me, but maybe that is because I was trying so hard not to fall on the sketchy bolts.

Location

This is at the Sales Pitch area, high on the west side of the Challenge Buttress. Hike up the talus field and the climb will be on your left near the top of the gully.

Protection

4 quickdraws and small TCUs to protect the final moves. Optional red camalot or equivalent to back up the single bolt anchor.

Photos

John Steiger  
 
First three bolts replaced in summer 2016 with 3/8", 3.5" long 5-piece Rawls w/Fixe hangers. Fourth bolt inspected, deemed okay despite surface rust (though, as always, use your own judgment and climb at your own risk), but hanger replaced with Fixe. Chains installed on top, which also can be used by weanies (like me) to top rope Don't Judge a Book. Aug 13, 2016
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Fun climb. Agreed bolts 1&4 are looking good, but bolts 2&3 are a bit rusty. There is currently a 2' piece of tat on the last bolt, maybe as a hand or foot hold of some kind? Forgot my commando knife to remove it. You can bring a tcu if you want it for the last section, but it creates bad rope drag and its easy once you get to a stance to place the gear from anyway. 2 bolt anchor, but totally offset so lowering is a no go unless you want licorice for a rope. Aug 30, 2012
Allen Sanderson
Oootah
  5.10b/c
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
  5.10b/c
"homemade-looking hangers"

HAHAHA, son them hangers are Leeper Hangers, been around since the 70s. Ole Ed did a recall on them a few years back. Now if you want to homemade hangers you should see the one I got from Bridwell. Double wrapped galvanized pipe tape.

BTW there is now a second bolt at the anchor. Both bolts could use some chain. About a 14" piece on the original bolt and a 8 piece on the new bolt. Jun 27, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10c
Wonderful but short. Well worth the hike I believe. Very thin edging, 2 bolts a bit old but 2 are good enough and good gear at the end. The belay is a bit of a concern though - hard to get to solo so someone just needs to rap a single piece or leave a cam. Aug 8, 2011
Jhernand
Salt Lake City, UT
Jhernand   Salt Lake City, UT
ahhh... so so climb. 2 of the 4 bolts have been replaced, but the same single chain link anchor remains. The 9+ R to the left was spicy and fun... but personally... not worth the hike, but surfin talus down to hollow man sure was a good time (Hint of sarcasm) Jul 8, 2010