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Routes in Upper Devil's Playground

Barbed Wire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack to Nowhere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackpod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Day of Wrath T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Formicae S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Galactus T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gargoyle, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gut Bomb V8- 7B
Lois V7 7A+
Meat Milkshake V6 7A
New Shoes T V4 6B
Panhandle, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sarah Palin's Drill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things to do in Vedauwoo When You're a Moose T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tunnel Vision T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Boulder
FA: Trevor Turmelle
Page Views: 1,092 total · 8/month
Shared By: JNE on Jun 4, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a very unique problem for Vedauwoo as it is compression climbing out a roof using big positive slopers. This problem is distinct, because it is basically a huge cobble stuck to a roof, and as a result most of the rock on the problem is really fine grained. Start on an undercling feature and slap out the roof, heading out right to exit up the tall easy slab. The start of this problem is low to the ground and as a result you need to keep your feet on. It was named after a bit of graffiti on a nearby rock.

Location

Drive 700N and take the left turn after 700NA, which is still 700N. Follow this to the large trampled campsite. Walk to the right around the formation staying at the base of the dome until you encounter a dilapidated barbed wire fence. Follow this fence up to the dome and it will lead you almost right to the problem, which is under a low roof on the north side of the dome. It has a great view of Spelunk Spire and the other crags behind Reynold's Hill.

Protection

A pad or two.

Photos

molony
  V7
molony  
  V7
Does anyone have any beta (name, grade) on the roof right above this (at the very top of this top out)? It looks like a lot of fun. May 28, 2009
poundit14
Laramie, WY
  V7
poundit14   Laramie, WY
  V7
I think it is V6, unnamed? May 28, 2009
molony
  V7
molony  
  V7
Two worthy variants to this problem are Louis- a direct finish established by Jesse Brown and Lois Lane- which follows the nice cobbles left under the roof until they run out, then mantles on crystals, established by Devlin Junker.
All 3 problems are about the same difficulty. Jun 4, 2010
John L
Fort Collins, CO
 
John L   Fort Collins, CO
 
I find the exit to this problem to be incredibly cryptic or difficult. I haven't sent it, but the exit I am currently trying (exiting to the right onto the slab) is hard. Jul 22, 2017

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