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Routes in Upper Devil's Playground

Barbed Wire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack to Nowhere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackpod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Day of Wrath T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Formicae S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Galactus T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gargoyle, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gut Bomb V8- 7B
Lois V7 7A+
Meat Milkshake V6 7A
New Shoes T V4 6B
Panhandle, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sarah Palin's Drill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things to do in Vedauwoo When You're a Moose T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tunnel Vision T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Rob Kelman and Ben Boykin, 2012
Page Views: 150 total · 2/month
Shared By: rob.calm on Sep 27, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


Climb the nice, but short, handcrack formed by the blade. The angle then eases and the crack widens. Follow it to a chimney. Slither along the bottom of the chimney, as if crawling under barbed wire, to the easy-looking vertical exit crack (crux), which is size-dependent. The bigger you are the harder it will be.


Barbed Wire, Day of Wrath, and The Panhandle are accessed by scrambling up the northeast side of Limbo Rock and moving to the southeast side along the ledge at top of Formicae. There are a series of cracks from moderate to huge along the ledge. Barbed Wire starts at the third crack on the wall, which has a large blade of rock on the left side of the crack. See the beta photo for The Panhandle.


Stoppers, #0.5-#5 Camalots.



More About Barbed Wire